Tidbit: Diesel Fireplace Heater- Tips for Installation and Use

This is one of a series of brief, no nonsense posts that we call a Tidbit:

noun; small and [possibly] particularly interesting items of gossip or information...

The purpose is to share succinct posts about lessons learned, or things we use or do that work [or don't...] that are common to many of us boaters. 

The goal is to garner feedback from those of you having first-hand experience with a better approach/ solution/ product...  

We never assume what we are sharing is the ideal or only; it just seems to best suit our needs [and/or habits and/or budget] from our experiences thus far...

Sometimes these Tidbits originate from a topic of discussion on one of the forums we participate in, and this happens to be one. [The original forum response- which includes additional details- is linked below.]

Since we encounter this question fairly often- and since it may affect other boaters- it made sense to post a more detailed response for future reference.

                   ➛ ➛ Peruse the right-hand sidebar for the up-to-date list of Tidbits ➛ ➛                   

It is rare to find a vessel that doesn't have some type of non forced-air diesel heater up here. 

Some people report continuing issues with sooting on deck using this kind of heater.

This post is a quick brain dump listing installation and usage parameters I have found to help minimize sooting. I ​rarely see any dirty decks​- ​but it can happen.​ 

Below I'll list the ranked causes of sooting with this kind of heater that I've experienced​ over time.

​I have had heaters like this on 4 of 5 boats I've owned over the past 4 decades. All were full time cruisers I used in higher latitudes. (>56°N in the Pacific.)​

​In Fall 2021 installed a​ Sig Marine 120 (pretty equivalent to the Dickinson Newport) ​on our current boat. In winter it ​is only been off a handful of times (when the boat is unoccupied) since November while we work on some winter projects at the dock. No soot. No backdrafting. (But we have been using this type of heater in 4 boats over the past 4 decades, so the learning curve is well absorbed.)

We find the heater output is too much in our 43 ft ​ketch if ambient temps are ​in the 40's °F. We then have to open ports and hatches to keep from overheating on the lowest setting- ​if we do light it in those temps...​ (This boat has several redundant sources of heat.)​

Our ​SIGMAR ​heater is on the lowest setting most of the time- ​sometimes elevated ​closer ​to a medium setting when ​its single digits above zero F and blowing outside...

What ​experience can I share specifically about this size and type of heater with a 3" flue​?​ (Following is a ​dense ​​overview full of hints about things I think I have learned over time- only for those truly interested...)

Here is Dickinson's version for reference.


Installation is important:

• Keep ​the total ​flue length ​a ​minimum of 6 ft, max of 8 ft
  
  
• Straight flue is best. 
• ​I​f you must dog​-​leg​ the​ flue​, don't use more than 2 elbows, and use the smallest angle you can- with nothing greater than 45°.
  

The barometric damper is properly adjusted in this photo of the heater in use.

The shield installed on top of the angled flue [to help shield the headliner]  and the vertical solid filler [right in photo] behind the perforated flue guard [left, but not showing much in this photo, but is prominent in the first photo of this post] were both fashioned from pieces cut from a single snap together 3" SS flue pipe.

• Install a barometric damper​ [see above photo]
• Locate it​ no further than 24 inches from where the flue exits the heater​, and no closer to the heater than 12 inches. 
• Be sure they are improperly installed and adjusted.
• Carefully adjust the ​barometric ​damper per manufacturer's instructions​ (I inserted a photo of our barometric damper with the heater on low, above, for reference.)​
• Most complaints about sooting are about installs lacking a barometric damper (and occasionally from improper adjustment of one that is installed.)

• Use an H cap​ (Charley-Nobel) in breezy conditions​. We have found it to be consistently better at handling wind gusts than the round version​ (in our testing and experience​.)

  

This is our typical flue set-up if expecting windy conditions. The flue extension length was determined by testing different lengths and caps during the same steady 20kt wind conditions. 

As mentioned in the main text, this 3" flue gets covered with a 4" flue sleave [note to self; need photo...] in cold weather to help maintain inner flue temperature, and consequently draft. [This 4" flue cover adds the side benefit of being cooler, and thus less threatening to bare skin and meltable fabrics the crew might be wearing in winter.]

We remove the flue and cap it off when not at anchor or at the dock; photo further down.

 

​ We sometimes use a round cap in calm conditions- typically fringe heating season overnighters.

• If planning to use the heater in temps cooler than about +20°F [-7°C] for extended periods, have a length of larger diameter flue pipe [4 inch diameter covers our main 3 inch flue well] you can ​temporarily ​slide over the primary flue above deck to provide a layer of insulation- helping ​to ​keep the main flue warm​ to promote a consistent draft in cold weather.​
• This insuilating sleave adds the side benefit of being cooler, and thus less threatening to bare skin and meltable fabrics the crew might be wearing in winter.

• Duct combustion air from ​an ​enclosed, vented space (our's draws from the engine room. This is where the bulk of the soot will go if you ever suffer an extreme backdraft.​ More below.)​
  
  
• Install a gravity feed day tank if you don't want to listen to a fuel pump burp every second or so while running the heater.
• Install a valve on the tank before the fuel hose.
  
  (Our day tank is filled by the 12 volt fuel pump that runs the tank transfer/polishing loop.)

• The day tank overflows back into the starboard fuel tank when full.

• Install a small shut-off valve at the fuel inlet on the heater. Develop the habit of closing it when the heater is off.
  
  This is a safety against fuel flowing through the overflow- draining the day tank- in the future when the small o-ring on the carburetor needle valve tip fails. (Ask me how I know this.)

• ​Run the overflow from the carburetor to the fuel tank if possible (vs. an overflow bottle.)
  
  If you do this, install a valve on that port on the heater, and remember to close that valve temporarily when fueling the tank the return goes to- but only if you don't want to back-fill the heater if you overfill the boat. (i.e., fuel up the fuel fill hose- which will be higher than the heater carburetor...)​
  
  
• ​Remove the above deck portion of the flue when the heater is not in use for extended periods, and always before getting underway.
  
  Secure the flue opening with the water tight cap made for the through-deck fitting installed on your boat.

  

Operational considerations:

• #1 diesel (AKA Heating oil​;​ kerosene​)​ burns much cleaner than #2 (The carburetor must be adjusted to match fuel selected​. See manufacturer's instructions.​)
  
  
• When first turning on fuel after preheat, ​set to medium ​flame size for at least 10 mins to warm the heater and flue. Then start turning ​it ​up/ down a little bit at a time- pausing a few minuites between adjustments for the heater to equilibrate to the new setting.​ (This is not a thermostat; it is a fuel flow meter... give the heater time to adjust to each new setting.​)

What causes sooting? (Note that sooting either vents out of flue top onto the deck, or when back​ ​pressured into boat via the combustion air intake in the bottom of the heater.)​ If [when?] it happens, either Krud Kutter, Davis FSR, and Someone To Do It cream cleaner are the magical soot removers...

Following are the primary reasons sooting occurs, in order of their occurrence from my experience.​

• Cause #1: Preheating the heater using diesel fuel ​with a tissue paper ​wick as the manual instructs. This causes a build up of soot in the flue and in the bottom of the burn chamber over time.
  
  Instead, we use ab​o​ut 3/4 of an ounce of denatured alcohol [AKA alcohol stove fuel; typically available where paint is sold]- and​ a long neck lighter instead of​ tissue paper​​ to ignite it. We​ pour the alcohol into the middle of the COLD heater chamber, turn ​the ​combustion air fan on low; lite ​the ​alcohol​ (the fan being on keeps the alcohol from 'poofing' when you light it.)​ When the alcohol flame starts going below the burner ring​ (​2-3 mins on average​) turn on the fuel flow to a medium setting, and t​urn off ​the ​combustion air fan​ (​unless it is blowing outside... more on that, below.​)​
  
  
• Cause #2: On our stove, we ALWAYS make sure the flame is above the 'top burner ring' otherwise there is too much combustion air and not enough fuel = soot. Slightly increase the fuel flow to correct this issue.
  
  Side Note: that top burner ring is removable. Don't assume it is installed correctly. It can also cause a miriad of flame and soot issues if incorrectly installed. (Read the manual!)
  
  
• Cause #3: Too much fuel and not enough combustion air = SOOT! (i.e., Too large of a flame.)
  
  Either decrease fuel flow, or turn the combustion air fan on and adjust the air flow to optimize the flame.
  
  I believe this is the #1 cause of sooting on deck: people turning the heater up too high in hopes of heating the boat faster.
  
  
• Related Cause #3.5: As the heater warms after being first lit, in a few hours the carburetor will warm, thinning the fuel it contains, thereby causing the fuel to flow faster. This results in the flame size slowly increasing- perhaps unnoticed- and possibly getting large enough to cause sooting as described in #3.
  
  Be aware of this, and keep an eye on the flame. Always.
  
  
• Cause #4: Rapid wind gusts (over 35 knots for our installation) COMBINED with negative static pressure inside the boat​​ can snuff out the flame and cause a woof when the still flowing fuel reignites in the hot burn chamber- blowing soot out every small crack and the flue and air intake openings. This is the most dreaded.
  
  It ​sometimes ​happens to us when we experience katabatic gusts (williwaws)- typically in glacial fjords in certain conditions. Think zero to 60 knots in ​under 10​ seconds.​
  
  S​ometimes ​slightly opening a hatch or port will help ​prevent a negative static pressure inside the boat ​in catabatic conditions​; ​and sometimes turning on the combustion air fan​ ​and increasing its speed to balance the wind gusts​-​ or a combination- ​helps prevent the flameouts.​

• Cause #5: [A minor contributor] When turning off the heater (by stopping the flow of fuel) turn the combustion fan on low for the few minutes [~10] it takes for the flame to completely extinguish. (A tiny flame flickers in the bottom of the burn pot for several minutes- burning off residule fuel.) Running the combustion fan during cool-down helps prevent small amounts of soot and smoke, and clears fuel odors from the heater.

I hope this quick brain dump is useful, and that I didn't forget anything critical.

These heaters are very ​safe if installed properly, and ​worthwhile if you ​are patient enough to learn how to use them. It is important to be very observant as you go through the learning curve of using and adjusting this type of heater​, and develop the habit of scrutinizing the flame (and adjusting when necessary) on a routine basis. ​

​We love the fireplace ambience that comes with the nice radiant heat.​

Do you have any tips and tricks to share on this topic?

_________________________

Link to original forum post 1-Feb-2023 which spawned this blog post.

PS: We are occasionally asked about how we installed the through-deck plate [AKA deck iron] when some of you notice we didn't use the typical teak ring to account for the deck angle.

Ignore the chain hook and line which shows in the two photos preceeding this one.

I was using a line to keep a small amount of tension on the top flue so it didn't lean over before the gasket set-up.

We used Sikaflex 291. [Paintable; sandable; heat resistent; can also be used underwater...]

Here are the basic steps we took to install the deck iron using Sikaflex as the spacer:  [Sorry, I was by myself and it wasn't convenient to take photos of every step along the way...] In fact, I suspect it took me almost as long to detail the following in writing as it did to perform the install - not including locating and cutting the flue clearance hole through the deck...

After the hole is made through the deck: [Measure 99+ times, then drill a small pilot hole to confirm (e.g.,  A 1/8" hole that can easily be epoxied closed if the position is incorrect...)  Then cut the main flue clearance hole as recommended by the manufacturer...]

Then...

1. Set the deck iron flat on the deck [no wedge yet] centered over the hole.
2. Rotate it so that the fasteners fall where you prefer them to be.
3. Apply wide painter's tape [e.g., 2" wide] around the perimeter of the deck iron, with the centerline of the tape on the joint between deck and deck iron [half the tape width on the deck iron, the other half on the deck.]
4. Mark where you will drill the pilot holes for your fasteners of choice.
5. Carefully slice the tape at the very edge of the deck iron with a very sharp blade.
6. Lift the deck iron from the deck and firmly press all remaining tape edges down onto the deck and the deck iron perimeter. 
1. This is what will keep the Sikaflex edge neat when you are finished- with little to no clean-up needed.
7. Insert a short length [e.g., 3" long] piece of oversize flue [4" to go around our 3" main flue] into the deck iron. Either glue it in place [a day or two before install; Sikaflex or hot melt glue would work] or use tape around the outside perimeter of the oversize flue sleave inside the deck iron. 
1. This short piece of oversized flue serves as both additional fire proofing between the main [small diameter] flue and the edges of the deck hole. 
2. It also prevents the Sikaflex from making contact with the main [hot] flue when you get to that step.
8. Drill the pilot holes you marked in step #4, above, for the deck iron fasteners you chose. 
1. Don't drill through to inside of boat... [future leaks]
2. Use a countersink bit to create a small fillet on top of each hole for sealant to flow into, forming a permanent O-ring style gasket for each fastener where it penetrates the deck.
3. And remember to use appropriate methodology if the deck is cored at your flue penetration location...
9. Dry-fit the deck iron with main flue installed underneath to center in the hole in the deck.
10. Remove deck iron again, and insert all fasteners through deck iron, and run a tight fitting, small diameter O-ring up each fastener to keep the deck iron flange tight against the fastener head. 
1. The O-rings will hold the deck iron in position- level above the deck- while you fit it into final position just before adding your Sikaflex gasket.
11. Put deck iron into final position, carefully screwing fasteners into pilot holes until the flange is level [not flat on the deck- unless your deck is level at that location...]  
1. The O-Rings you installed will hold it off the deck temporarily in final position.
12. Double-check that the oversized, short sleave [4" dia x 3" long in our case] and main flue [3" diameter for us] are exactly in position in the hole through the deck, and in the deck iron.
13. Fill the void between the deck and the deck iron completely with Sikaflex 291. 
1. Cut the tube to have a wide tip, and work out from the center to the circumference to help prevent air voids.
14. Once you are sure that the cavity is full of Sikaflex, run a putty knife around the circumference to shape it the way you want. 
1. The above photos were taken shortly after the tape was removed and the Sikaflex was still tacky.
15. While the Sikaflex is still tacky, remove the painter's tape from both the deck [pulling tape at an angle away from the Sikaflex] and the deck iron flange.
16. Clean up any Sikaflex that escaped the tape.
17. Before putting everything away, remember to lay a blob of Sikaflex about the size of the cross section of the thickest part of the gasket on a piece of cardboard, and set it aside near the deck iron. 
1. This will be your tell-tale indicator of how firm [or not] the Sikaflex is under the flange since you now wait a few days before putting any load on the deck iron... [I do this anytime I use any goop to seal something on the boat... Is it set yet?]
18. After a couple of weeks [or whatever Sika recommends] you can sand and/or paint your Sikaflex gasket. [We left ours as-is, and looks great to us in plain white.]

Please share your experiences and alternative approaches with us so that we- and most importantly, others- can benefit from your efforts.

Tidbit: Pilot Berth in the Pilot House?

This is one of a series of brief, no nonsense posts that we call a Tidbit:

noun; small and [possibly] particularly interesting items of gossip or information...

The purpose is to share succinct posts about lessons learned, or things we use or do that work [or don't...] that are common to many of us boaters. 

The goal is to garner feedback from those of you having first-hand experience with a better approach/ solution/ product...  

We never assume what we are sharing is the ideal or only; it just seems to best suit our needs [and/or habits and/or budget] from our experiences thus far...

Sometimes these Tidbits originate from a topic of discussion on one of the forums we participate in, and this happens to be one: Link to original post [22-Jan-2024]

Since we encounter this question on occasion, it made sense to post a more detailed response for future reference.

                               ➛ ➛ Peruse the right-hand sidebar for the up-to-date list of Tidbits ➛ ➛                               

Alternate title: Sleeping around a Centre Saloon table

---

I haven’t had a dedicated pilot berth for a couple of boats now. [Last was the Valiant Esprit 37; Bob Perry design.] I really liked that typical pilot berth. [A snug tube that would contain you in a rollover- although likely bruised and soggy afterwards.]

What do we use for a pilot/ anchor watch berth in our center cockpit, center cabin Nauticat? 

In the pilothouse, we have U-shaped seating surrounding 3 sides of a sliding, expandable [leaf] table which is mounted on a cabinet pedestal. 

The longer [hull] side makes an excellent pilot/ anchor watch berth. [Though very rarely needed…] Do a sit up and see all instruments, MFD, etc. as well as look out the pilothouse windows, and with quick access to both helms.

We are fortunate to have a second helm station in the pilot house so we don’t have to sleep in our foulies when standing the rare anchor watch. [Think of it as a nautical contribution towards aging-in-place…]

A lee cloth is permanently attached to the cabinetry under the bottom cushions parallel to- and the length of- the table. 

It is easily deployed by lacing a line between grommets along the top of lee cloth and strong eyes installed under the table top.

When a lee cloth isn’t really needed [which is our typical scenario] we instead remove the wedge shaped back cushions from the long part of the settee [against the hull] and drop them upside down [thick edge up] into the gap between the seat and cabinet- effectively widening the berth and filling the chasm most might prefer not to discover while sleeping.

It may be worth noting that this berth has been renamed by some landlubber guests in the past who didn’t study-up on their nautical jargon before visiting [as we do recommend on our Guest Page.] Typically this happens when our overnight guest count exceeds the number of available guest berths [very rare as we can sleep 8 without becoming overly friendly]  and occasionally when guests- who normally share sleeping accommodations- decide [not always mutually] not to [for reasons unknown to us.]

Our other dog house offers very remote [and very basic] accommodation, but also include something unique: a guest selectable degree of separation [length of dinghy painter…]

Both are great locations for a nap, too [weather pending…] And either could be used while underway! [Again, Wx pending…]

_________________________________

Related Posts:

Sleeping well at anchor

Sail Covers, and Dodger Windows

I bet you thought I was just putting my feet up, reading books, drinking wine, and living the lazy life. Uh, wrong!

In between rain showers, I'm laying my projects out on the dock for measurements, and dragging them back inside to sew. Guess what? I'm done with four of them.

Main sail cover up and completed.

I got personalized labels made to put on all of my sewing projects for Denali Rose.

You may recall a previous post about how I cracked the front vinyl window.

Original look to the dodger. (Sprayhood, over the companionway, entrance to the boat.)

When we bought Denali Rose three years ago, we had a "professional" add a leather strip to the top leading edge of the dodger to repair some chafe, and to protect against any more. They took the dodger apart, and when they sewed it back up with the leather strip, they tweaked it somehow, and we couldn't get any of the zippers to meet after we put it back on the frame. (major irritation) I was afraid to take it back off for fear I wouldn't get it back on, so I took the zippers off, added material to one side, and resewed all of the zippers back on, BY HAND, and in place on the frame.

We have put up with the cloudy vinyl, and weird looking zippers, until I cracked it last winter, and then it was time to see if I could make it better. We decided on one continuous stretch of window, instead of having zippers so that the middle piece could open. We're in Alaska, and we don't really need the ventilation, (for now). I had to create a new frame for the new vinyl, and hope that when we put it back on, it would fit. My swear jar is full. 

Sewing with Bill's help.

We reused the original roof, and sides of the dodger, and sewed in a new windshield. It was super unwieldy, because you don't want to fold, bend, or make marks on the new vinyl. It is fragile while you are working with it, and preventing permanent damage is important. Bill helped maneuver the piece around while I pushed and pulled it through the machine.

Installed the new lower windshield, and removed the top one.

I'm not tall enough to look out the top piece of the windshield, so I wasn't going to redo it, but Bill is, so he said he would like that done too. I had just enough of the sheet of vinyl left over that it was a perfect fit for the redo. Since I had gotten the main piece to fit, I thought that the smaller window would be easier. Guess what, I was right! (mostly, still the swear jar got used)

It's easier to fit in my sewing area.

Notice the cat curled up in the upper left, Elsie pays no attention to commotion. And the pile of tools on the right, Bill is continuing the electronics re-do. I figure I'll keep sewing till he's done, and then I'm done. 

Woot woot, windows in, and we can see out!

What do you see in the background?

Yup, you guessed it, the mizzen sail cover is complete and up in it's place also.

Done!

So, yeah, I've been lazing around..........  in my dreams. Hmmm, what's next, I may tackle a couple of window coverings, an inside project.

As always, we enjoy hearing from you, either here in comments or on our Facebook Denali Rose Sailboat page.

First Aid Training, Knowledge, & Supplies

This post has now been added to our list of Stuff we have and use [and do...] sidebar where we will keep it up-to-date in the future.

Please read that updated version.

________________________________

Original Version:

We prefer exploring remote areas- both on land and sea. [Or is it we prefer to stay away from crowds...?] Consequently, we lean toward self-sufficiency and focus on prevention as well as preparedness. 

This philosophy is also our approach for rescuing a person overboard; we focus most of our efforts on preventing it from happening– leaving rescue procedures for last.

As part of our safety briefing with guests we discuss accident prevention. To emphasize how important injury avoidance is to us, we warn everyone that injuries— no matter how minor— will be amputated. No exceptions...

Invariably this prompts questions about First Aid kits, preparation [training] and most importantly, prevention.

From my experience, the answers to questions regarding how much training [and kit content] depend upon where and how we will be traveling [e.g., sailboat cruising, kayaking, and hiking in this context] and how isolated the areas will be. [i.e., How self-sufficient do you need/desire to be in an emergency?] 

I personally believe proactive prevention, followed by reactive training is even more important than the first aid supplies onboard for ocean crossing and remote area coastal cruising. Proper training will help you deal well with emergencies and give you the knowledge to formulate [and evaluate...] your own concepts for what to carry in your kit(s). 

Training will also help you find your balance for risk tolerance vs. those associated with your planned adventure(s).

I believe proper training also facilitates efficient communication with remote medical support services in an emergency. [e.g., Working with medical specialists over a radio or phone. (i.e., Telemedicine) It also makes it easier to obtain prescription meds for your kit(s)...]

There are, however, those who feel specialized First Aid training is not useful because they believe those lacking a medical background will not benefit from nor retain unpracticed training. [e.g., Dr. Welch]  

Do you agree?


How our strategy evolved:

We are prone to traveling in fairly remote areas where it is often unusual to see another vessel [or person] for days, or sometimes weeks at a time.

Therefore, when pondering prevention, First Aid kits [and training...] the first question we ask ourselves is how long might we have to cope with an emergency situation before we could anticipate the arrival of qualified assistance? [Whether that be someone arriving on scene- e.g., an ambulance; or us transiting the patient(s) to medical facilities.]

In a big city, it might be 10-20 minutes or so before an ambulance arrives on scene. Much First Aid training is based upon this scenario. But what if it took 2 hours; or 10; or a day; or two days before you could reasonably expect qualified assistance? [Whether they are coming to you, or you to them...] 

Ask yourself if you are you prepared for that...

Delayed [or remote via voice call; e.g., Telemedicine] assistance is the more likely scenario for a cruising boat. [See the Yachting World article in Additional Reading section, below...]

Can't we just read a good First Aid kit and book and be prepared for most contingencies?  

Possibly... And you could possibly read a book about sailing or driving a car, and then just go do it... 

More questions to ask yourself: [or; what did we ask ourselves...?]

Could you stand to listen to someone you care about [or a stranger for that matter] moan and scream in pain while you to read [and interpret] a book, or use an app on your phone? [Will your hands be clean and dry enough to use either?] Can you keep pressure on that bleeding wound, and/or keep their spine immobilized while you search your reference materials for what to do next? 

If there is more than one injury and/or patient, are you comfortable deciding who to assist first and the priorities of treatment?

In a remote location scenario, are you prepared to converse effectively with medical professionals on a phone or radio, provide the feedback they request, and understand their advice and guidance? 

If you answered yes to all of the preceding questions, then there is no need to waste more of your time here...

So, what is our current strategy? 

We plan around hands-on medical assistance [on-scene or self-transport to assistance] always being a minimum of 1-4 days out. Even if we activate an emergency beacon [e.g., EPIRB, PLB] or make a sat phone or radio call. Therefore we try to be prepared to cope and manage for 4 days as our designated worse case scenario. 

Figure this out for yourself and it will help you decide how comfortable you are with your level of knowledge and preparedness... Because we figure we may have to be self-sufficient for up to 4 days in a medical emergency, we both obtained Emergency Medical Technician [EMT] and other training. 

A reasonable alternative for those who cannot commit one or two college semesters to EMT training [EMT levels 1 and 2 are all we felt we needed] is the NOLS Wilderness First Responder [WFR] course [80 hours in 9 full days in a row- mostly outdoors...] 

Whether you have EMT, Paramedic, or NOLS WFR training, the NOLS Advanced Wilderness First Aid course [WAFA] is icing on the cake. [40 hours over 5 full days- time divided between classroom and outdoors...]

We really got a lot out of the NOLS WAFA course, and highly recommend it. But either of these courses will boost your knowledge and confidence immensely.

We have also heard very good things about the Offshore Emergency Medicine course by Wilderness Medical Associates International, but have not had an opportunity to attend one... yet... [Textbook included in book references, below.]

Do we really need all of this training?
   Hopefully not.

Have we had occasion to put it to use?  
   Unfortunately, yes. [More below...]

Do we need such diverse First Aid 'kits'? 
   Again, hopefully not. [But we don't normally need fire extinguishers either...]

Would lack of training or First Aid supplies prevent us from pursuing our adventures? 
   Not a chance. 

But if I have learned one thing about myself [with many requisite lessons in humility...] it is the more I delve into a subject, the more I discover I don't know... 

So, I have proved to myself more than once that ignorance truly is blissful– but not very useful in a pinch...

If you plan to always be close to first world societies and reliable means of emergency communication and transport, then you may be able to justify [rationalize?] less knowledge and training. 

It all depends on your personal risk tolerance, desired level of self-sufficiency, and the situations you may encounter on your chosen adventures. 

To help mitigate the risk of delayed response times in remote areas, we joined DAN Boater. 

This service [note: this is NOT insurance...] includes a 24/7 emergency medical hotline and worldwide emergency evacuation– among other related services– for US$100/year for a [US or Canadian] family [up to 5 individuals.]

This is a no brainer for us...

First Aid Kits

What supplies do we include in our First Aid kit(s)? [We found we were better able to formulate our own lists after some advanced training...]

A good initial reference [for boaters] is Practical Sailor's series of articles on this topic which includes evaluations of commercial First Aid kit offerings for various levels of need.

Independently, we decided upon the Adventure Medical [Marine] Kits line of offerings for our major kit. 

We have 4 levels of kits ranging from the usual stuff we need for minor, day-to-day issues, up to major trauma kits with neck braces, various splints, IV solutions, an AED in the near future, etc.

Adventure Medical Kits also happen to be what NOLS and many other organizations rebrand and sell.

We have amassed various levels of First Aid Kits, and carry what is appropriate for the adventure at hand. For instance, we have about everything you could need on the boat; carry a smaller subset of that in our kayaks, and an even less when exploring on land... [And no, we are not 'gram weenies'... Our kits are somewhat larger than many...]

For our boat ditch bag kit [and for grab-and-go and more extreme emergencies onboard] we chose the Adventure Medical Marine 3000 kit, and supplemented it with additional items we felt were worthwhile for our current risk factors. 

List of supplies included with basic kit

We added items like a traction splint, 4 neck braces in 3 different sizes, inflatable arm and leg splints, additional IV solutions, tooth/cap repair kits, Epi-pens [and spare ampules of Epinephrine and syringes...] fast dissolving [sublingual] antihistamines, prescription antibiotics and painkillers, high energy goo packs, and other specialty items. 

If you are wondering why we added some of these items [or what they are...] then you may be ready to augment your first aid knowledge...

We stow our kits in [truly waterproof] ditch bags made by Watershed. [They also make military bags and rifle cases Navy SEALs swim with... These are not your typical roll-top 'dry' bags– which in our experience leak if left floating on water for a while; and definitely leak if submerged...] 

Here are a couple of our ditch bags: the yellow one is the typical non-waterproof floating bag packed mainly with waterproof signaling and communication devices, and a few survival goodies. 

The red bag is one of our Watershed ditch bags currently containing our near-shore survival gear. [e.g., tent, sleeping bags and pads, food, cooking supplies, etc.– all packed in waterproof bags within the ditch bag... Remember we are playing on the Inside Passage at present and ditching the boat would typically lead us to shore quickly...]

The black snake on top of the bag is a paddle board leash. We install bungee style leashes on all of our ditch bags to safely and easily tether them to us, the raft, dinghy, etc. in a hectic emergency situation...

And speaking of ditch bags— we have 3; not including the First Aid Kits— stand-by for a separate post on that topic...

Many cruisers choose to make up their own First Aid Kits. Using the list from the Practical Sailor reference, above, and/or one of these commercial offerings is a good starting point if you decide to do that. 

However, we have discovered there really isn't much savings building our own comprehensive First Aid Kit(s) [especially if you include your time...] We also feel that the organization and ease of refilling/reordering contents included with the commercial kits is a worthwhile added value for us.

What is in our medical library? 
[We are not including EMT and other specialty titles here...]

Emergency and general First Aid: [In alphabetical order- by publisher where applicable]

• Hesperian Health Guides:
• Where there is no Doctor
• Where there is no Dentist
• Marine Medicine: A comprehensive guide 
• Included with Adventure [Marine] Medical Kits
• NOLS: [Not a DIY resource; requires the training...]
• Wilderness Medicine
• Wilderness Medicine Field Guide
• Wilderness Medicine Pocket Guide 
• Helps get you past 'brain freeze' in an emergency...
• Where there is no Pet Doctor  [If you have pets onboard as we do...]

Other books worth considering include:

• Merck Manual(s)
• Various titles of interest; great for diagnosing and treatment
• Don't forget the Veterinary version if you have pets...
• Physician's Desktop Reference [PDR]
• Various titles; useful if you need to understand medications in remote situations
• Wilderness and Rescue Medicine 
• Offshore Emergency Medicine course textbook referenced above

Have we ever been put to the test as a couple?

Yes, but luckily our personal worse injury to date [and here's hoping this record holds...] has been a fractured wrist; in inclement conditions at night in a remote setting on shore during a kayak trip. [Colles' fracture; very painful, but more inconvenient than life threatening...] Third-party water evacuation back to our vehicle– 20 kayak paddling miles away– was not possible until the next day [~16 hours- and one overnight- later] due to timing and inclement conditions. Subsequent ground transport and arrival at a medical facility occurred late on day 2. [~21 hours after the incident...] All-in-all not bad— unless you were the patient...

Lessons learned from that incident:

• More powerful pain relief meds were needed. [Now in inventory. Otherwise the kit was more than adequate.]
• Voice communication with rescue and transport resources [via sat phone in this case] is invaluable in an emergency requiring assistance. [Without that, it would have been 4 days before conditions abated enough where I could tow the patient- in their sea kayak- roughly 20 miles back to our vehicle, and then drive another 2 hours to medical facilities...

Is that the worst incident I have ever been involved with? Unfortunately, no...

I hope this explanation of how our strategies developed will help you continue your own discussions, and that you never have the occasion to test your First Aid skills or use your kit(s)!


Additional Reading of Note:

• Attainable Adventure Cruising: Medical Emergencies eBook
• Modest membership fee required, and so worth it to us...
• DAN Boater: member stories 
• Yachting World: Telemedicine at Sea

Please leave a comment sharing your First Aid strategy [and philosophy if you like]; favorite preventative measures; books on this topic; and any unique inclusions in your kit(s), if any. 
[e.g., We don't need snake antivenom in our current latitudes...]