Showing posts with label Boat handling. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Boat handling. Show all posts

March 11, 2019

Tidbit: Sleeping well at anchor... [Updated Feb-2026]

This is one of a series of brief, no nonsense posts that we call a Tidbit: 
noun; small and [possibly] particularly interesting item of gossip or information...
The purpose is to share succinct posts about lessons learned, or things we use or do that work [or don't...] that are common to most of us boaters. 

The goal is to garner feedback from those of you having first-hand experience with a different approach/ solution/ product/ or additional useful information to share...  

We never assume what we are sharing is the ideal or only; it just seems to best suit our needs [and/or habits and/or budget] from our experiences thus far...
Note: The original blog post [below] has been inducted into Tidbits since it qualifies, but was originally published almost 2 1/2 years before we initiated the Tidbit series in Jan-2019... 
[First published 24-Aug-2016]


                        ➛ ➛ Peruse the right-hand sidebar for the up-to-date list of Tidbits ➛ ➛                        


One of the many joys of cruising is the feeling of liberation once you gain trust in your ability to anchor, in your ground tackle, and your method(s) of maintaining situational awareness. 



Denali Rose at anchor in Traitors Bay, Alaska [Near Ketchikan...] Great bear viewing area for only a 1/2 mile walk on shore... Hence the occasional float plane brings a load of cruise ship passengers for a quick tour.

Here we are anchored in 80 ft with rocks not necessarily close to shore bared at lower tides in several quadrants, and a large, very rapidly shoaling head of the bay which is aft of the boat in this photo.  [e.g., if the anchor dragged, the depth change is so abrupt, we would go aground before the anchor reached an uphill portion to reset upon...]

Just another typical anchorage in paradise...

Trustworthy anchoring is not unlike that feeling of accomplishment earned once you can quickly- and repeatedly- parallel park an automobile in a tight spot on a steep, icy road in heavy traffic. Not everyone gets there...


But this is not a discussion about how to anchor [nor parallel park...] This is about being able to relax afterward, while maintaining awareness... 



What do we do? [Nothing unique...]

  • Trace our route into the anchorage in case we need to follow it out in the dark
  • Anchor like we're expecting 60 knot sustained winds [Force 11] with higher gusts
  • Capture the coordinates of the anchor
  • Take bearings on landmarks when possible
  • Set at least two proven and reliable anchor alarms
  • Set wind and depth alarms
  • Keep broadcasting our position on AIS
  • Illuminate the boat well at deck level- to supplement the masthead anchor light
  • Set a RADAR guard zone [when the situation warrants]
  • Stay aware
  • Set an anchor watch if needed [at least then everyone else can sleep...]

Details:


We begin by always recording a GPS track on one or more chart plotters when transiting, and especially when entering an anchorage area. [Many have tricky entrances and some require certain stages of tide as well for either optimied depth or current- or both...] 


That gives us a trail to follow should we have to bail-out of our anchorage in the middle of the inevitable tempest in the dark... [The author learned this the hard way.; a long story from eons ago (pre-GPS) but with a happy— yet expensive— ending...]


While still tracking, we scout the area(s) where we would like to drop the hook by slowly driving in a circle repersenting the anchoring perimeter. This is how we evaluate the bottom and any obstacles within our chosen anchor zone... Our forward looking SONAR is also used during this stage. 


Before dropping the anchor, we will place the boat at the position we believe we want to drop the anchor [the center of the previously scouted perimeter] and perform a 360° turn-in-place [a back and fill maneuver...] to map the bottom with the forward facing SONAR from the anchor's view if you will. This is helpful later as we watch our swing at anchor. [Are we staying within the anchoring area we already scrutinized?] 


This also helps us to properly calculate the anchor scope required at high tide- especially on a bottom with uneven depth where the depth can often change by 100% or more depending where the boat is in the circle of swing... 

Side note: The 15-20 foot tidal variations in our present cruising area have negligible effect on the diameter of the circle of swing at anchor. [Use Pythagoras' Theorem to demonstrate this to yourself...] However, the scope ratio is affected more in shallower anchorages [rare for us...] when tidal fluctuation is a significant percentage of the depth.
We always mark the anchor location and continue GPS tracking on the chartplotters and navigation apps once anchored. It is very informative to see where we have wandered while on our leash. [This is automatic on our Vesper Watchmate Vision; more below.]  It is also extremely enlightening if conditions worsen or we start getting hit with williwaws [a type of katabatic wind gust.]

Next, we always anchor as though we expect it to blow 60 knots. [Force 11] It only takes about 5 extra minutes to do this every time [and that includes deploying a bridle...] Because of this we rarely have to get up at o-dark-thirty to deal with an anchor related issue. [Our own anchor anyway...]



Okay. We're anchored. Now what?

Diligently maintain situational awareness while we enjoy doing other things...

This means staying cognizant of our boat's position with relation to land; other vessels and obstacles 
around us [above and below the waterline...]; the tide, weather, etc. 
When we anchor with the intension of leaving the boat [e.g., kayaking, a shore trip, visit another boat, or whatever...] we always wait at least an hour after anchoring to confirm our swing [wind/tide] at anchor is as anticipated, and that the anchor location doesn't move without our knowing... This also gives us time to recheck the weather, tide, anchor scope calculations, etc...
How do we maintain situational awareness full time while at anchor? [Hint: You can't if you ever plan to sleep...]

Since we spend a majority of our time in our pilothouse when on the the boat at anchor, we are always visually aware of what is going on around us [except when very dark or when sleeping...] If we are concerned about anything around us, we sleep in the pilothouse where, with just a sit-up, we can quickly glance outside. If an anchor watch is needed, the pilothouse is a comfortable watchstanding location in foul weather...


What about when we both sleep with no anchor watch? [i.e., normal circumstances...]

We typically set multiple anchor alarms, may set RADAR guard zones, always transmit and receive AIS, always depth and wind alarms, and sometimes marine radio(s), etc. as needed.

On prior boats in the days before GPS [and then for a time, dithered GPS; hence no accurate anchor alarms] a tell-tale compass in one's berth area was somewhat handy to help with orientation when awakened at anchor and during a passage. But it didn't show one's position nor surroundings. One had to get up and look around.


Another habit from the old days is taking some bearings on lights, landmarks, etc. I can also spot in the dark. [e.g., lights, some high points on land (e.g., unique trees, rock formations, mountain tops, etc.)— the silhouettes of which would be discernable in the dark.]

Now, we always set anchor [and depth and wind] alarms on our Vesper Watchmate Vision AIS transponder. We will often also set an anchor alarm one of our Zeus2 MFDs. 

And depending upon circumstances, we might also set one or two tablet anchor alarms and RADAR Guard Zone alarm(s).

If we are within cell phone range and plan to be away from the boat, we used to* also set a geofence on our remote vessel monitoring system— essentially a remote notification anchor alarm [among other alerts... e.g., bilge pump, battery status, etc.]
* Our older remote vessel monitoring system was dependent upon 2G cellular data— which has been deprecated worldwide. We haven't upgraded yet. 
We can also set up remote anchor alarm notifications using two iPhones [one on the boat] using the Remote feature built-in to several navigation apps. [More below]



What Anchor Alarm apps do we use on tablets/ smartphones?
[Also see the Additional Resources section at the end of this article for more info.]

For back-up anchor alarms [on our smart phones or tablets] we currently use either Anchor! and/or the anchor alarm function built into the AquaMap Marine or TZiBoat charting apps. Thus far we find them both to be the best, most robust, adjustable, and detailed graphic anchor watch applications available...

As brought up in the comments section, below, false alarms can be a sleep-depriving nuisance when using anchor drag alert apps. [Usually due to momentary loss of GPS signal— and in the case of our Vesper Watchmate, momentary loss of wind or depth data on the NMEA2000 network.]
What might help? Add user adjustable delays before an alarm is sounded, and more granular sub-settings.
As an example, AquaMap Marine has the best alarm tunability I have seen so far:

Update Apr-2023: AquaMap announced cell phone to cell phone anchor monitoring so you can be alerted if your anchor drags while away from yor boat [in locations with cell signals at the boat and your location. [Not shown below.]



For information about other boating related applications we are using/evaluating, see our maintained page about Computers, Devices, and Applications.
All redundant alarms are set with ever increasing- but safe- parameters. The goal is for them to sound one at a time [if things are happening slowly...]

Setting several alarms takes very little time and provides the needed redundancy for our comfort. [On those rare occasions when it is important to be awakened by an alarm clock (e.g., to catch a flight) we set two; this reduces inclination to wake up toandpeek to see of a single alarm failed to awaken us...]
An important note about the geometry of anchor alarms: 
Are you familiar with the GPS position error [up to 2x...] so common in most anchor alarms? If not, read this article from Boat US- which includes description of a fail-safe technique for setting two alarms on different apps.
Note that Vesper AIS transponders with anchor alarms updated in 2016 compensate for this error, as do the two apps I cited above.
Do you know of other products that compensate for this error? Please let us know by leaving a comment.
We also each have tablets with very accurate built-in GPS running navigation software as well as a mirror of the MFD showing the vessel's position and an overlay RADAR image, etc. These are always within reach- especially when sleeping.

If expecting weather or vessel traffic, or if either occur unexpectedly, we set zone alarm(s) on the RADAR [our 4G consumes very little power...] to warn of other vessels [or land, etc.] encroaching on our comfort zone. 


The RADAR image is also viewable on our tablets- which is handy when awakened by a RADAR alarm while sleeping. We can quickly assess and mute the alarm from the tablet, and of course get up if necessary, or roll over and go back to sleep if not... [e.g., a dinghy passing through our RADAR watch zone is not worth getting up over unless they are coming to see us...]


Changing the depth alarm to suit is also important to us on those rare occasions we anchor in water shallower than 60ft at low tide... [This is another anchor watch function of the Vesper Watchmate Vision AIS.]


The Vesper AIS also allows us to set wind alarms [directional and/or speed changes.]



If we could only set one anchor alarm, which one would we choose today?

Without question it would be the Vesper Watchmate Vision AIS. [It is always set first regardless...]
If we didn't have the Vesper, then we would choose one or both of the anchor alarm apps mentioned above. [Which we typically use as back-ups anyway...]

Update Feb-2023: Vesper has been acquired by Garmin. Garmin has decided to discontinue all Vesper AIS models except the Cortex. The Cortex has an even better anchor alarm that what we describe here. We will continue to use our Watchmate Vision AIS until it no longer serves its purpose.  

Why is the Verper our unequivocal first choice? [From the manufacturer's website:]

Safety at Anchor – Anchor Watch


Every sailor knows that being at anchor is no guarantee of total safety. In particular, anchors can drag without those on board being aware. Thanks to Anchor Watch, however, you can be safer and sleep well at night. That’s because Anchor Watch sounds the alarm if you drift outside a zone defined around your anchor position. Activate the anchor watch when you drop the anchor touching the Vision screen or using a mobile device to activate it remotely from the windlass or anywhere on-board.

Wind speed, wind direction change or minimum water depth alarms


Get added safety at anchor by setting wind speed, wind direction change and minimum water depth alarms and take quick precautionary action when these alarms are triggered.

Move Anchor Position


If your Anchor position needs fine-tuning after you have marked it, you can do that with the Move Anchor Position.

Breadcrumbs.


Vision plots your position in relation to the anchor and marks your positions over time for easy visual identification if you are dragging. It also works well on smartphones and tablets.
Enhancement suggestion for Vesper [Now Garmin- which deprecated this model…]: 
There is one feature I believe would make the Vesper Watchmate Vision Anchor Alarm even more useful; being able to choose screen orientation.  [Update: Now available on their Cortex model.]
Currently it will only display North-up. There are times when it would be far handier if it would display Heading-up. However, I realize this could make the view jump around and not be useful in certain circumstances...  [But then we could switch back to N-up just like a chart plotter...] 

What about the flip-side: helping others become aware of [and see] us?


Proactive measures include:

RADAR: To improve the chances of returning a strong RADAR signal, we have a large Blipper radar reflector mounted high on the main mast. [I imagine some may wonder why we stow a fender way up there...]

AIS: We also broadcast our position on AIS 24/7 when away from a dock. Additionally, our Vesper Watchmate Vision AIS transceiver allows us to tune alarm thresholds for different scenarios [including AIS Filters, depth, and wind direction and velocity.] Therefore, while at anchor we don't have any distant vessel alerts waking us up- only potential close encounters as established by values we set... [And the AIS is wired to an optional, very LOUD external alarm...]


Like our B&G Zeus2 MFDs, the Vesper Watchmate Vision is viewable [and controllable] via WiFi on our smartphones and tablets...

Improved Visibility: To enhance our vessel's visibility to others when we are at anchor in the dark [remember it doesn't always get dark overnight in higher latitudes during summer...] in addition to the masthead anchor light, we also deploy 2 portable anchor lights; one on the inner forestay on the bow about 12 feet above the deck [and under the black anchor ball day shape] and one amidships- typically inside the cockpit enclosure to serve two perposes. We have a 3rd anchor light [like the portables but with a mounting bracket] permanently mounted on the stern davits- which also serves as a 'dinghy garage' light...
Article discussing where to display your anchor light(s).
And what do the international rules say? (COLREGS Anex I)

(i)All-round lights shall be so located as not to be obscured by masts,
topmasts or structures within angular sectors of more than 6
degrees, except anchor lights prescribed in Rule 30, which need
not be placed at an impracticable height above the hull.
(ii)If it is impracticable to comply with paragraph (b)(i) of this section
by exhibiting only one all-round light, two all-round lights shall be
used suitably positioned or screened so that they appear, as far as
practicable, as one light at a distance of one mile.”
Here is an excellent article in Practical Sailor covering supplementary anchor light choices.

 

Denali Rose from ~2.5 miles- taken with a smartphone camera from our dinghy.
Masthead anchor light is off in this photo; you are seeing 3 of these portable anchor lights. Bow is on the right in this photo. (Highest light.) There are no shore lights or other vessels in this (calm) anchorage- which is the norm for us. [Note that the snip of red light seen in the photo is showing through a cabin port; i.e., it is not a NAV light.]


These deck level anchor lights are visible for 2+ miles and, since they hang upside down, do a nice job of illuminating the deck, too. This makes our boat very visible both from both water level and a distance. [Mast head anchor lights are difficult to spot/ triangulate from water level when close-to. Ours is 60 feet above the water, so we rarely use it...]

All [4] of our LED anchor lights have dusk-to-dawn photo sensors, so they are self managing.

Of course, it never hurts to keep the habit of flying the appropriate day shapes as well... [This is enforced in some areas/countries; for our sailboat a black sphere while at anchor, and a black cone pointing down while motoring...] 


Dayshapes signal our vessel status in daylight to anyone near enough to care...

And we can always hail them on the Marine VHF radio...


Reactive measures

What do we do when other vessels enter our self proclaimed 'safe zone'? [e.g., A 200 ft radius Guard Zone set on the RADAR.]


Illumination and light signals:

Remember, our deck is already well illuminated and defined by the 3 deck level and an optional masthead dusk-to-dawn anchor lights...


  
The first thing we do if there is vessel traffic encroaching on our safe zone in the dark is turn on our two LED deck lights [one on each mast of our ketch...] 

We have a switch next to our berth as well as in the pilothouse and cockpit. We can also turn the deck lights on remotely with our smartphones via the remote vessel monitoring system when we have cell signals. [This is handy when returning to the boat from the dinghy, kayak, or when on a dock.]

This adds even more light to our deck, and perhaps indicates to the other vessel we know they are there...

We can also activate a 900 lumen 'back-up' light on our stern from within our sleeping cabin. [In the future, once we install the forward looking LED 'headlights' for night running, we will add the ability to activate them remotely as well.]

On the masthead there is a (SOS) strobe light which I wouldn't hesitate to activate if warranted.

We also have a variety of extremely bright, portable signaling devices, flashlights, emergency dive lights, floodlights, and long distance spotlights [all of which have rapid strobe functions, and several with automated SOS] we can use to gain the attention of another vessel in our vacinity.

In addiiton to handheld lights, we can also deploy one of our laser signaling devices [kept with our PFDs.] 

Not to mention pyrotechnic flairs...


Sound Signals:


We also have a switch in our sleeping cabin [as well as both helms] that allows us to sound the air horn [and a klaxon] if necessary should we decide a wake-up call is warranted for another vessel... [Or to alert uninvited guests on deck we are aware of their presence, which is a non-issue in our current cruising grounds— unless herons count...]


In dense fog, or if we have to anchor in a non-traditional area [e.g., an emergency requires we anchor where we are- possibly in the open location or fairway where other traffic might not expect it...] or other extenuating circumstances requiring appropriate sound signals, we broadcast the appropriate sound signal over the PA horn via our VHF radio. 


The PA is also useful for one or two-way communication, so we can speak to others if needed.  Since it is also a microphone, we can hear waves, other boats, people talking, fog horns, etc.— especially useful when motoring in poor visibility...

We can also use our very loud Storm whistles, oral blow horns, and portable compressed air horns.


And we can always hail them on the Marine VHF radio...


Conclusion:


Using these techniques and approaches, we typically sleep very well at anchor- but always with a heightened level of situational awareness.

All of these modern electronics consume so little power that we don't hesitate to avail ourselves of their charms as needed.

Of course, we don't rely solely upon electronics to keep watch- they are like any other aid to navigation; we don't count on any single one... Instead we post anchor watches during times of concern [regardless of reason] and I always check the physical world anytime I have a 'feeling' [What was that?] or am up for any other reason...

Always anchoring as if it will blow 60 kts with excellent, proven ground tackle and having a selection of trustworthy, dependable, proven electronic aids to back-up our physical monitoring enhances our levels of relaxation and comfort while at anchor. [And we are typically the only boat at anchor where we are exploring these days...]

Do you take any special measures to to help you relax while at anchor? 


Favorite Sundowner recipes included!  Please leave us a comment.


Related resources:

Denali Rose Ground Tackle Inventory
Computers, Devices and Applications we use

March 6, 2019

Tidbit: Docking with Bull Rails Instead of Cleats... [Updated Feb-2024]

This is one of a series of brief, no nonsense posts that we call aTidbit: 
noun; small and [possibly] particularly interesting item of gossip or information... 
The purpose of these Tidbits is to share succinct posts about lessons learned, or things we use or do that work [or don't...] that are common to most of us boaters.
The goal is to garner feedback from those of you having first-hand experience with a different approach/ solution/ product/ or additional useful information to share...  

We never assume what we are sharing is the ideal or only... 

We share this information in case there are any points of interest for others, and to solicit your feedback.

                         ➛ ➛ Peruse the right-hand sidebar for the up-to-date list of Tidbits ➛ ➛                         


Each year we hear from a few visiting boaters who are surprised to discover there are no cleats available on most docks in Alaska; only bull rails. [Small vessel slips excepted...]

Most bull rails we encounter are wood, and sometimes galvanized steel:








































Why Bull Rails? 

  • Bull rails are more versatle and generally much stronger than cleats
  • One size fits most [commercial and recreational; 30 to 100+ ft.] 
  • You can tie-off anywhere along a bull rail
  • Cleats may not be ideally sized, affixed, or positioned, and not every mariner agrees on proper use:



The ketch on the left is a 95 footer...
























How does one 'grab' a bull rail when docking?

We have several approaches we use, depending upon conditions and circumstances at the time:

1) Ideal conditions 
[e.g., No appreciable wind or current; lots of maneuvering room.] 

We pull up to the dock and step off [never jump...] carrying a temporary breast line [a relatively short line made fast to a midship cleat.] 
This fair-weather docking reminds us of the Hollywood version of docking in that the opportunities are rare, but practice is still required...
When stepping onto a dock, one needs to always exercise caution; they can be slippery...
Sometimes conditions might even justify issuing crabbing gloves to the line handler(s)...

Now that we are standing on the dock, we run the short breast line line under the bull rail and back to cleat; making it taut. [Again, in benign conditions...]
But wait a minute; lets revisit this: 
One of our contributers [in the comments section, below; thank you, Brucemade a valid point— emphasizing securing the temporary breast line while the boat is still moving— or being moved:
Bruce describes running the temporary breast line over, then under the bull rail [a full turn around the bull rail] to provide more friction for the line handler to stop the boat [and/or keep it from drifting away from the dock due to wind and/or current.] 
Following through, the line handler could then take a second wrap and finish with a couple of half hitches on the standing part [a round turn with two half hitches...] to secure the vessel.
We may need to reconsider our SOP for the temporary breast line and always take a round turn on the bull rail instead of the half turn I described above. 
Why? Even though we already take a full wrap when conditions warrant, muscle memory from the benign conditions half turn approach could cause a moment of hesitation at the wrong time... So why not always take a full turn and make that the new muscle memory— even in benign conditions...? 
Thanks for making me rethink this, Bruce! 
Why make the temporary breast line taut? So the boat can't venture very far or pivot enough to get us into trouble. [Remember, we stepped-off the boat, so we started pretty close to the dock with this neutral conditions approach...]

It takes about 5-10 seconds the first time you do it...  

The boat isn't going to go anywhere, and no helpers on the dock are pulling your bow or stern line making you go cockeyed... [This is not a difficult maneuver with a little practice- even if single handing in the wind...]

If there are helpers at the dock, the breast line is the only line we would hand them initially. Not bow or stern [for reasons already mentioned, above...]

Here is a good article about using a breast line— with illustrations






Note that bull rails are typically set back a few inches from the edge of the dock. This helps prevent line handlers from getting an appendage caught between the boat and the dock. [We call this becoming a human fender... not recommended...] 











2) Less than ideal conditions: 
[e.g., windy, adverse current, close quarters maneuvering, etc.] 

When we cannot get close enough to the dock to safely step off, we have two other approaches we typically use:

A) Grappling hook

These can be useful when you are too far from the dock to step off, but the potential for inflicting damage to yourself, your boat, the dock, or other individuals or vessels is pronounced. [And unless they collapse— like some dinghy anchors— they are a pain to store...

Instead we use a purpose designed Easy Docker for grabbing bull rails: 
[Unfortunately, the Easy Docker website no longer exists...]
Close examination reveals it is more than just a simple hook; it has well thought out 3 dimensional geometry that makes it work every time on our 6 inch square bull rails- and even the larger 8 inch square rails with a little practice... 
It is extremely well made, and we highly recommend it...
Demo using the EZ Docker [by the inventor]



B) Docking spring line:

Another method is 'lassoing' the end of the bull rail with a balanced spring line as we approach parallel to a dock. [Typically bow in.]

Balanced spring line? 

A line with a loop [bowline] on the dock end [for lassoing the end of the bull rail...] which emanates from the vessel's point of balance.

Balance point? [In this case docking bow in— forward gear.]

This is the fairlead/attachment point a balanced spring is lead from where— after the line is made fast to the dock and boat— as you slowly power [with little, if any helm...] it will draw the boat to the dock and hold it there— still in gear— as you step off [cautiously; facing the boat— like a ladder...] and make fast the temporary breast line [#1, above]. 
Many commercial fishing boats we have observed docking in slips often enter bow in, just kissing the dock with their bow. sometimes with the engine still in forward gear to hold the boat steady [depending upon conditions] They then step off the boat and secure their dock lines. 
You need to experiment with your boat to determine where that point of balance is... [most vessels have one...] 
It may be worth noting the balance point will likely be different when docking stern to. [in reverse...]  On our boat, the midship cleat is close enough to being the spring balance point when we are backing while docking.
The designers of our boat [Sparkman and Stephens] added a fairlead in the toe rail right at both [port and starboard] docking spring line bow in balance points [i.e., the balance points when approaching bow first— in forward gear. Brilliant!]




Close-up of the docking spring fairlead.
Another view showing the midship cleat and fairlead [far right in image] and the docking [balanced] spring fairlead [with a fender line running vertically through it; left in image.]

We run the docking [balanced] spring line through this fairlead and then either to the midship cleat, or a return [snatch] block fastened to that cleat and then back to a primary winch for controlling that line from the helm... [Very handy when single handing a bow in approach...]


If you wish to learn much more about implementing and using a balanced spring line for docking and close quarter maneuvering, read this excellent series of articles
[The modest membership fee is well worth it for us...] 


How do we secure dock lines to bull rails?

We always deploy at least one of each of the following docklines: [And more as needed for conditions and circumstances...]
  • Bow line
  • Stern line
  • Fore and aft springlines
When possible, we prefer to run the bow and stern lines from their designated cleat on the boat around a bull rail vertical support, and then back to the boat. [i.e., Line 'on a bight'] 

This allows us to work from our deck to adjust the bow and stern lines— as well as easily slip them when departing...


This photo was taken after being at the dock for 3 straight months in winter. 
The spring line rolling hitches were never retied, and only adjusted once— to remove a small amount of 'stretch' after a strong windstorm. 

Our spring lines [one line really— with the middle cowhitched to a breast cleat] originate from amidship and are lead around the bull rail and one of the bull rail supports. Each end is then lead back to itself and secured with a couple of rolling hitches. This allows for easy spring line adjustments without having to untie/uncleat anything... [particularly handy in sporty conditions...]

This method holds extremely well in any blow, and still allows you to safely adjust the docklines while on deck. The springlines are adjusted on the dock by sliding the rolling hitches one way or the other. [No need to fumble untying/tying knots in inclement conditions...]

We secure all four of these regular dock lines while the temporary breast line is still in place— only removing it after our standard dock lines are all made fast. 
We typically reverse this order when departing the dock: [situations and conditions pending...]
Most of the time when preparing for departure from a dock [always depending upon conditions...] we first re-install the temporary breast line and then remove the spring lines. This is all done from the dock. 
The remaining dock lines are slipped from the boat. [bow, stern, and temporary breast line] The temporary breast line is typically the last to be slipped before departing the dock...



Why not run lines around the bull rail itself? 

Often we do— especially when a vertical support isn't conveniently located, or is abrasive. 

Notice how dock lines have burnished this well seasoned bull rail over decades of use:
We are often asked if the wind blows much up here... Those grooves were created by ropes on wood over time...

When securing dock lines to a bull rail, we lead the line from the boat under the bull rail, then back to the boat over the top of the rail. [i.e., line 'on a bight'] This is necessary when the vertical bull rail supports are not conveniently located, or of a rough material that might damage our lines.

Why run the line from the boat under the bull rail; then back to the boat over the top? 

When adjusting those lines or departing the dock, you can handle them from the deck of the boat: just uncleat the line on the boat and toss over the bull rail onto the dock. It retrieves without friction or tangle by just pulling it under the bull rail.

If you went over the top of the bull rail and then under back to the boat, you end up with the line wrapped around the bull rail as you retrieve from the boat...

Other methods we sometimes use for securing docks lines to bull rails include: [especially when a line isn't long enough, or it is inconvenient to loop back to the boat...] 




Basically, there are as many ways to secure a vessel to bull rails as there are boats...











Lines don't need to be this tight...
This happened over one winter...







...or this loose...


Do we ever get splinters? 

Absolutely! 

Soft lines snag like silk stockings on rough wooden bull rails. Lines with splinters in them are hazardous to handle [who said meathooks can't be made of wood?...] Therefore we use good hard 3-strand line of appropriate size for our vessel [1"] with no snagging issues. [Soft laid 3-strand line, brait, etc. would be just as bad as double- braid...]
Soft hand dock lines don't work well with wood bull rails due to snaging and splinters... And besides, double-braid lines don't stretch enough anyway and are therefore a poor choice for dock lines anywhere you might get some wind or waves...
I hope some of this is useful to those of you who may not be familiar with docks having bull rails. 

And of course, most of the above information also applies to docks that have cleats, rings, bollards, etc. 

Please share your favorite methods for dealing with bull rails...