February 26, 2019

Tidbit: Anchor Locker Design Details

This is one of a series of brief, no nonsense posts that we call aTidbit: 
noun; small and [possibly] particularly interesting item of gossip or information...
The purpose of these Tidbits is to share succinct posts about lessons learned, or things we use or do that work [or don't...] that are common to most of us boaters.

The goal is to garner feedback from those of you having first-hand experience with a different approach/ solution/ product/ or additional useful information to share...  

We never assume what we are sharing is the ideal or only. In this case it is about the attributes the builder of our boat provided for us [and some we added...] 

We share this information in case there are any points of interest for others, and to solicit things you have done that we might be interested in...

                         ➛ ➛ Peruse the right-hand sidebar for the up-to-date list of Tidbits ➛ ➛                         


The anchor rode locker on Denali Rose is not that unique, but does include several thoughtful attributes:
  • Totally isolated from the rest of the boat with a stout waterproof bulkhead
  • Adequate anchor rode stowage for two full size bow anchors [primary purpose]
    • Thick rubber matts line the bottom [3 layers on the bottom] and sides of the locker. [The kind of heavy matt for standing on— with drain holes.] This helps drip-dry the chain, and keeps it from beating up the inside of the locker/hull [while also keeping it quiet...]
    • Very strong rode attachment points [inboard side of bobstay fitting]
    • Deep enough to free-fall ~200 ft. of 5/16 in. G4 galvanized chain per side
  • Propane locker for two 20 lb. tanks including propane solenoid and regulator
  • Windlass motor enclosure, electrics, backing plate and fasteners
  • Access to the backing plates and all fasteners for the windlass, both foredeck cleats, and chain stoppers, forestay attachment point, etc. 
    • This is important because if any of these fittings ever leaked or were torn out of the deck [very unlikely in the 1 in. thick solid fiberglass deck; but possible...] water wouldn't reach any living spaces or the bilge because the leak/breach would be confined to the anchor locker...
  • There is space on top of the chain piles to suspend line bags [outboard; i.e., not directly under access hatches...] containing several hundred feet of spare anchor/kedge rode, shorelines, etc. 
  • Pressure washdown hose for anchor and deck; switchable between raw [salt for us] and fresh water. [We wash with salt and rinse the chain with fresh once in the locker...]
The only access to the anchor locker is through two Starboard covered hatches in the foredeck: [following 2 photos]




The waterproof bulkhead that isolates the anchor locker from the rest of the boat is even with the aft edge of the stainless steel windlass deck plate. [photos above and below]










The locker is also divided in half to keep the rodes for each of the two bow anchors separated.













Propane Locker:

For propane tank stowage, there are two round platforms glassed into the port and starboard aft corners of the locker— as near the underside of the deck as a ~20lb propane tank will allow. [i.e., The tanks are well above the chain pile— and have protective covers; more below...]  

In addition, both chain rodes from the windlass are farelead past the tanks through lengths of heavy rubber hose [wet exhaust hose] so the vertical portions of the chains cannot ever touch the tanks. [The windlass backing plate has stainless steel pipe sleeves extending from the underside for attaching lengths of 2 in. ID hose for leading the 2 chains...]

Each tank is secured in position with straps affixed to their respective platforms, and each is protected with a heavy duty customized plastic cover. [i.e., Upside-down 5 gallon buckets, each with a slit for the gas line. These plastic propane tank covers were required to pass muster with the purchase survey— and subsequently the insurance company...]


Drain Holes:

The locker also has two drain holes [~1 1/2" dia]; one on each side of the bow. This drains any water that makes its way into the locker on any tack. It also satisfies the requirement for  propane locker drainage. [Open drain(s) low in locker discharging overboard...] 

Each drain hole is covered with a heavy composite cowling— facing aft. They do not ship water when underway plowing into head seas, and have not yet clogged with mud or debris. [We clean the chain as we haul in the anchors...]

The manufacturer also offset the drain holes so one is higher than the other- ostensibly so if the lower drain plugged, the upper would continue to flow [at least until it plugged...] The bottom of the higher drain hole begins at the top of the lower drain hole. [i.e., they are offset by their diameters.]


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Two views of the anchor locker drain covers demonstrating placement and the vertical offset.





Following is a close-up of a drain cowling [and bobstay attachment point- which also provides stout anchor rode attachment points inside the anchor locker... Note that the bow is 3+ inches thick solid hand laid fiberglass...]

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What would improve the anchor locker?

1) Light: 
In the future I plan to install a bright LED light [dual color] inside the locker- primarily for watching the chain pile while hauling the anchor. [This is needed more in bright daylight than in the dark...] 
A light will also be useful when working upside-down in the locker. [e.g., switching propane tanks, fetching line bags, etc.]  
For now a headlamp suffices...

2) Hatch dogging: 
I need to implement an improved method for securing the hatches for offshore work.

3) Easier access to the depths of the locker:
It tapers enough towards the bottom that it is difficult to stand in it and reach the bottom. [Although rarely necessary...] Instead one must lay on deck and lean over into the locker- and my arms cannot reach the bottom by a long shot... [Hmmm... falling in head first into the empty locker could prove embarrasing... and difficult to self-recover from...]
Perhaps installing a waterproof hatch- strategically placed in the bulkhead- would provide access and visual inspection from within the boat. [without compromising the bulkhead...]

Do you have any suggestions for improving Denali Rose's anchor locker?

_____________________________













February 22, 2019

Friday Funny 02-22/19 (Chocolate Calories Don't Count)

Not sharing.

When Bill flew back east to visit friends, he took a frozen Alaskan present for them.

Before his trip, he went out for a day with a local commercial trawler, and had fun observing them harvesting shrimp. After purchasing flash frozen boxes of the day's catch, we air freighted a large box to friends elsewhere, and packed up our smaller Yeti cooler for the trip to Maryland. The present was well received.



That left an empty Yeti cooler for a return trip to Alaska, and Bill went shopping at Trader Joes to fill the void. We made a list of favorite goodies, and filled the cooler, as well as a newly purchased Rubbermaid tub. Alaska Airlines has a deal for Alaskans, called the 49er Club, checking two bags for free, so Bill wanted to take advantage of free transportation.

Chocolate, and cookies filled the available space nicely. 😁

Several layers deep.

More goodies.


Now the task is to find room to store it. The deeper the storage compartment, the longer the stash will last. Also, if you come visit Denali Rose, we might share.


As always, we enjoy hearing from you, either here in comments or on our Facebook Denali Rose Sailboat page.

February 18, 2019

Tidbit: Solar Panels in mid and high latitudes [AKA DC Power Management...] [Updated Aug-2023]

This is one of a series of brief, no nonsense posts that we call aTidbit:
noun; small and [possibly] particularly interesting item of gossip or information...
The purpose is to share succinct posts about lessons learned, or things we use or do that work [or don't...] that are common to most of us boaters. 

The goal is to garner feedback from those of you having first-hand experience with a different approach/ solution/ product/ or additional useful information to share...  
We never assume what we are sharing is the ideal or only; it just seems to best suit our needs [and/or habits and/or budget] from our experiences thus far...
Sometimes these Tidbits originate from a topic of discussion on one of the forums we participate in, and this happens to be one: Link to original thread [30-Dec-2018]

Since we are asked this question often, it made sense to post a more detailed response.

                  ➛ ➛ Peruse the right-hand sidebar for the up-to-date list of Tidbits ➛ ➛                  


Original Question from Cruiser's Forum:

Re: Solar panel output high latitudes?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingrock View Post
Above 50 degrees latitude, what kind of output will solar panels produce in the real world. "Real world" as in typical weather conditions?

...

My response:

Following are two real world solar panel installations which include accurate data gathered a bit further north of 50°—  on the E Pacific side of things... 
Note: I'll provide electrical data in watts [other values listed are nominal...] so you can crunch the numbers to derive your own conclusions and decisions based upon your individual electrical system and requirements... 
Also note that climate is likely as much, if not more of a factor than latitude [addressed below...]

If you need a math refresher: [within the context of this post...]
Watts [W] / Volts [V] = Amps [A]  Power
Watt-Hours [Wh] / Volts DC [V] = Amp-Hours [Ah (at specified voltage)] Energy
1 Kilowatt-Hour [kWh] = 1,000 Watt-Hours 

 

Here are three handy online calculators:   

     

Background and reference:

We live onboard our boat fulltime, and are away from the dock [cruising and anchoring] ~9+ months each year.

Denali Rose's house battery bank capacity is ~10.8 kWh [~10,800 Wh, or ~900 Ah @ 12V DC (nominal) flooded lead-acid (FLA) batteries...]

Our average daily [24hr] energy consumption [averaged annually] is ~2.2 kWh [~183 Ah]. This includes running 2 refrigerators and 1 freezer full time, a variety of LED lights, computers and related devices, inverter for AC, the Espar diesel heater and ship's electronics much of the time... 

Our 12V DC charging sources include:
  • Battery chargers powered by either shorepower or an onboard 10 kW AC generator [2.2 kW combined capacity, all programmable]
  • Alternator on the engine [1.4 kW with programmable external regulator]
  • Solar panels [3 totaling 460 W; each with its own programmable MPPT controller]
  • KISS wind generator [300 W]


First mid latitude solar panel example: [SV Denali Rose]

We cruised between 55° and 59° N along the SE coast [Inside Passage] of Alaska during 2018. 

The 3 solar panels [460 W combined] on our boat each have their own Victron MPPT 75/15 controller. This not only helps mitigate [isolate] the affects of partial shading [i.e., loss of output] of a single panel, but also provides redundancy [two panels could share one controller if one became inoperative. 
Here is a simplistic but effective demonstration of the effects of partial shading, and also compares series to parallel wiring of solar panels.
Our 3 controllers share one battery voltage/temp sensor installed on the house bank, and are the sources of the solar output data in the 1st example, below. 
It is worth noting that in our current latitudes, our house bank rarely achieves 100% state-of-charge [SOC] when we are not on shorepower. Therefore, the MPPT solar panel controllers are in a constant Bulk charge state. [i.e., outputting maximum possible into the battery bank when they are active; 100% Bulk duty cycle.] 

The following data is for the calendar year 2018: [Aggregated data for 2019-present on will be published one of these days, but as of Aug-2023 the data still support the same conclusions...]

1) One 130W panel on top of bimini. 
New in 2005; slightly pivotable. More frequent shadowing in this location— mainly from the 2 masts [and occasionally, a crewmember...]
The Victron controller reported it produced a total of 49 kWh in 2018:

You can just see a corner of the solar panel on top of the bimini, and the horizontal tubing it pivots on.
[and our first mate, Gus...]



2) Two 165 W [330 W combined] mounted side-by-side as one assembly on top of davits. 
New in 2017; Pivoting to optimize sun angle. Typically fewer shadows than bimini top location.

These 2- 165 W panels produced a combined 193 kWh in 2018.

Here the panels are temporarily leveled to provide easy access to the ladder on the transom...
Note the shadow [from the mizzen boom..] on the starboard panel. 



What was the approximate solar panel yield on Denali Rose for 2018?

Combined panel energy yield: 
  • ~49 kWh [bimini]+ ~193 kWh [davits] ≈ 242 kWh [total annual yield]
  • 242 kWh [total annual yield] / 2.2 kWh [average daily consumption] ≈ 110 days of electrical consumption coverage from our solar panels

What percentage of our annual energy consumption does this represent?
  • ~2.2 kWh daily consumption x 365 days/yr ≈ 803 kWh/year total consumption
  • ~242 kWh [total solar/yr]  / ~803 kWh [total annual consumption] ≈ 30% of our total 12V DC energy needs were replenished by our solar panels.
Even though this result is a very simplistic average [one that ignores many other variables- including seasons...] it is an indication [for us...] that our solar panels are worthwhile...


Other factors influencing insolation on the boat [besides latitude...]: 

Aside from boat infrastructure shadows [e.g., masts and booms...] on the panels, and weather, we are also subject to geographical factors that affect solar gain on the boat. 

For example, we often anchor in locations surrounded by tall mountains [e.g., 3-7,000 ft]. This often results in shorter periods of direct exposure to the sun in summer, and blocking it completely in winter... [Take another look at the photos above...]

I strongly suspect climatic factors affect insolation even more than latitude. For estimating climate and weather related factors [e.g., solar intensity and exposure periods, and percentages of cloudy days...] I like to use Weatherspark.com and Climate.gov.

We also optimize any potential gain from our solar panels by running the generator early in the morning [i.e., before the sun is intense enough to power the solar panels...] on days when the house bank needs a deep charge. [i.e., is approaching 50% SOC]

The battery chargers will get the bank back to 80+% SOC fairly quickly. The solar panels will continue bulk charging during the sunny portion of the day. [This is less important in winter months when days are short and solar gain is minimal...]


Second high latitude solar panel example: [monthly data from an optimized (auto sun tracking) land based system @ 65° N]

Family members in interior Alaska have 2 large grid-tie auto-tilt/tracking [max possible-output] solar arrays on a mountaintop [i.e., optimized insolation for the location...] 

The 2 multi-panel arrays have a combined capacity of 5.5 kW.





Their data [kWh] follows: [Note the 2nd array went online in 2010...]

Go to live data 


Another personal demonstration of the efficacy of solar panels at mid latitudes:

We also have a truck camper and 2 enclosed trailers stored at 56° N. 

Each has its own 100 W rigid solar panel [3 total; each with their own PMW controller] on an adjustable rooftop mount— which is typically tilted ~55° when stationary for long periods. [This angle also helps shed snow...]

These panels keep their respective 2.4+ kW [200+ Ah 12V DC] battery banks topped up year around
The truck and camper each have 2 batteries [4 total] maintained by one 100W panel. 
One of our trailers also has the batteries from our two ATVs tied into that trailer's solar panel circuit with individual DC - DC chargers...



I hope this will help you determine whether solar power is worthwhile for you in the latitudes and climates you are considering.


Related Resources:

Interested in our electrical consumption when at the dock in winter using electric heat?

_______________________________














PS to SELF: DON'T CHANGE THESE IMAGES AS THEY ARE LINKED TO THE ORIGINAL FORUM RESPONSE...

February 15, 2019

Friday Funny 02-15/19 (Kitty Mom)

I know, it's a day late.

While Bill was gone, Elsie, and Gus had to put up with me being their primary care-giver. Some of it worked out well, and some of it didn't.

Bill wakes up, and gets out of bed earlier than I do, and he is usually the one to serve the cats breakfast. With him not here, Elsie was not a fan of having to wait for me. She usually woke me up by, sitting next to my head, and staring at me. If I didn't sense her presence, she would emit one yowl, if that didn't work, she would repeatedly pat my cheek with her paw. It was sort of cute the first time or two, after that, not so much.

Feed. Me. Breakfast!

With all of the winter weather we received, they didn't want to go out much. Gus, and Elsie would get their collars put on, I would open the hatch, they would meander into the cockpit, walk to the back of the boat, sniff the cold air, put a paw into the snow, and turn around to race each other back inside. Usually, they didn't even ask to go back out the rest of the day. The indoor activities included, trading off who got to sleep inside the preferred shark bed, who got the box by the heater, who claimed Dad's shirt on the bed, who could use which catbox first, who could bat each other in the face till the other gave up, and who could eat the kitty kibble down to the bottom before the other. What fun!

Elsie's tail hanging out of the shark bed, looks like a black tongue.

Elsie is hogging the heater box.

Gus likes to curl up on Dad's shirt.

Too much snow out here.

What?!? It's still winter?

Gus surprised me one evening. He has never been a lap cat, he doesn't like to be held, and will only tolerate it for very brief periods of time. I was watching a movie on my laptop, and Gus jumped up on the settee, and plopped down in my lap. He adjusted a bit, stood up circled around, and settled back down. Gus stayed there for hours! I was stunned, but I took advantage of the kitty love, and he took advantage of the head scratches.


Don't wake me.

I assume he needed a bit of reassurance, with Dad being gone for 2 weeks.

Bill finally made it through the Seattle Snowpocalypse, and is back onboard. All's right with the world again. That means I don't have to get up for kitty feedings, but it also means I probably won't get Gus lap snuggles either. I'll work on that.



As always, we enjoy hearing from you, either here in comments or on our Facebook Denali Rose Sailboat page.








February 9, 2019

Friday Funny 02-08/19 (Procraftinating*)

Correct!

Bill has been gone for a week or so, and I took over the boat with creativeness. I was going to sew, but I decided it would be much more fun to make cards instead. I took over the main table in the salon, and left just enough room for my computer, and a place to eat.

Creative Clutter is better than Idle Neatness. 

I've had a productive week, and made so many cards. Sorry, I can't show them to you, presumably, my close friends, and family read this blog, and the cards are for their birthdays.

I also found some terrific blogs, and vlogs about card making, and organizing card supplies. I've gone through my "stuff", and tried to organize, because 1. the more I organize the more I can have, and 2. I am constantly finding more I want.

Also Bill owes me, he's been gone during the worst weather we've had all winter. First it got extremely cold, (for here), it was down to 6F. I woke up thinking I had been transported back to Fairbanks. Brrrr.  I've been keeping warm by using both the electric, and the diesel heaters. Towns-people have been checking on me, that's nice. 😁

Then the weather warmed up, but brought the snow. I shoveled the boat, and our dock finger 4 days in a row. Whew, it's quite a bit of work. I had filled up the water tanks on Denali Rose before the cold weather, and now I was down to less than 1/2 a tank, and I really needed to do a load of laundry.

Yesterday, no snow, and temps in the 30's, finally. I had to thaw out the water hose, and I got to fill the water tanks, and launder my underwear, (running out, TMI).

Bill has been thinking of me though, he bought some presents for me, and Amazon delivered them.

Yummy!

If you know how much I love popcorn, you'll know that I had to pop some up right away, and use my new microwave popper. Delicious!

*Procraftinating: Working on craft projects when you should be cooking, doing the dishes or doing the laundry. Or maybe getting a blog post out on time.....  😝


As always, we enjoy hearing from you, either here in comments or on our Facebook Denali Rose Sailboat page.







February 5, 2019

Tidbit: Anchor retrieval when the windlass fails...

This is one of a series of brief, no nonsense posts that we call a Tidbit:
noun; small and [possibly] particularly interesting items of gossip or information...
The purpose is to share succinct posts about lessons learned, or things we use or do that work [or don't...] that are common to most of us boaters. 

The goal is to garner feedback from those of you having first-hand experience with a better approach/ solution/ product...  
We never assume what we are sharing is the ideal or only; it just seems to best suit our needs [and/or habits and/or budget] from our experiences thus far...
Sometimes these Tidbits originate from a topic of discussion on one of the forums we participate in, and this happens to be one: Link to original post [6-Jan-2019]


Since we are asked this question often, it made sense to post a more detailed response.


                               ➛ ➛ Peruse the right-hand sidebar for the up-to-date list of Tidbits ➛ ➛                               


Scenario: You are at anchor and it is time to go, but your windlass won't cooperate.
What are your contingency plans?

We have three:
  • Retrieve the groundtackle without using the windlass
    • Hand-over-hand
    • Line to winch
  • Use one of the manual modes on the windlass
  • Abandon the groundtackle and plan [hope] to retrieve it later
I'll start out mentioning that manual retrieval [hand-over-hand] is not likely [in our case...] unless we are in very shallow water— which is rare to never...  

Why not? Our primary bower is a 99 lb. Spade anchor on 5/16 in. G43 chain @ 1.1 lb/ft; We typically anchor in 40-90 ft., leaning toward the deeper side of that spectrum.] 
The dead lift over the bow roller in ~40 ft of water is in the neighborhood of 150 lbs., and approaching 200 lbs. in 90 ft of water... [Here is our complete ground tackly inventory for reference.] That is way too much for me to haul in [but Donna may wish to give it a go...] and not very safe for even a 'deck ape'; especially in sporty conditions...

What about using the windlass in manual mode? 

Our windlass has two manual [i.e., no electric motor] options [all use standard winch handles] for cranking in the groundtackle: 

  • There is a winch handle socket on each end of the axle supporting a chain gypsy
  • On top there is a 'kedging' socket that spins the same shaft the motor does, yielding over 10,000 lbs of pull with 30 lbs of force on a 12 in winch handle [30 ft-lbs] ... but the kedging socket is of course the slow option... 


LightHouse 1501 windlass



I have tested our Milwaukee drill assembly on a gypsy axle socket to test this scenario, and it works great. The battery easily lasted completely retrieving 360 ft. of chain from a depth of 70 ft. [We have 2 batteries...]

It retrieves at about the same speed as the windlass motor [~33 ft/min] but without the benefit of any gearing in the windlass- so all torque is supplied by the drill motor... 


Complete Cranker


The drill motor works well in the kedging socket also, but that is geared way down so it is not for quick retrieval, but will free an anchor if needed- or pull with great force [10k+ lbs] in a kedging action...


What if the windlass doesn't work in manual mode?

Driving the windlass using one if it's winch sockets will work if it is an electrical failure, but not for certain mechanical failures. [e.g., a bearing seized, the gears striped, etc; not likely, but possible...]

In that case, we would use a line with a chain hook to the anchor chain [or a rolling hitch] to a winch to retrieve the groundtackle in ~25 foot increments.



What about an emergency ditch and run scenario?

In an emergency situation where we wouldn't have time to retrieve the groundtackle, the plan is to let the rest of the rode out by opening the clutch on the windlass and letting it rapidly gravity deploy. 

The end of the rode is attached to the boat with ~8 ft. of 3/4 in. line. This leaves about 2 ft. of chain on deck from the bow roller. 

Our game plan is to secure several of our large round orange fenders to one end of a 100 ft. length of leaded crab trap line. [Leaded line sinks, so that helps reduce the chances of fouling the prop...]  

The other end of that line would be fair led and secured to that last bit of chain on deck, then that line and the floats would be tossed into the water.  
The purpose of using 100 ft. of leaded line is so the floats don't have to buoy the weight of the chain in deep water...
To finally free the boat, we would lastly cut the line attaching the chain to the boat. [Hence the expression cut and run...]

Please share your recommendations if they are different from what we have planned...