This is one of a series of brief, no nonsense posts that we call aTidbit:
noun; small and [possibly] particularly interesting item ofgossip orinformation...
The purpose of these Tidbits is to share succinct posts about lessons learned, or things we use or do that work [or don't...] that are common to most of us boaters.
The goal is to garner feedback from those of you having first-hand experience with a different approach/ solution/ product/ or additional useful information to share...
We never assume what we are sharing is the ideal or only...
We share this information in case there are any points of interest for others, and to solicit your feedback.
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Each year we hear from a few visiting boaters who are surprised to discover there are no cleats available on most docks in Alaska; only bull rails. [Small vessel slips excepted...]
Most bull rails we encounter are wood, and sometimes galvanized steel:
- Bull rails are more versatle and generally much stronger than cleats
- One size fits most [commercial and recreational; 30 to 100+ ft.]
- You can tie-off anywhere along a bull rail
- Cleats may not be ideally sized, affixed, or positioned, and not every mariner agrees on proper use:
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| The ketch on the left is a 95 footer... |
How does one 'grab' a bull rail when docking?
We have several approaches we use, depending upon conditions and circumstances at the time:
1) Ideal conditions
[e.g., No appreciable wind or current; lots of maneuvering room.]
We pull up to the dock and step off [never jump...] carrying a temporary breast line [a relatively short line made fast to a midship cleat.]
This fair-weather docking reminds us of the Hollywood version of docking in that the opportunities are rare, but practice is still required...
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When stepping onto a dock, one needs to always exercise caution; they can be slippery...
Sometimes conditions might even justify issuing crabbing gloves to the line handler(s)...
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Now that we are standing on the dock, we run the short breast line line under the bull rail and back to cleat; making it taut. [Again, in benign conditions...]
But wait a minute; lets revisit this:
One of our contributers [in the comments section, below; thank you, Bruce] made a valid point— emphasizing securing the temporary breast line while the boat is still moving— or being moved:
Bruce describes running the temporary breast line over, then under the bull rail [a full turn around the bull rail] to provide more friction for the line handler to stop the boat [and/or keep it from drifting away from the dock due to wind and/or current.]
Following through, the line handler could then take a second wrap and finish with a couple of half hitches on the standing part [a round turn with two half hitches...] to secure the vessel.
We may need to reconsider our SOP for the temporary breast line and always take a round turn on the bull rail instead of the half turn I described above.
Why? Even though we already take a full wrap when conditions warrant, muscle memory from the benign conditions half turn approach could cause a moment of hesitation at the wrong time... So why not always take a full turn and make that the new muscle memory— even in benign conditions...?
Thanks for making me rethink this, Bruce!Why make the temporary breast line taut? So the boat can't venture very far or pivot enough to get us into trouble. [Remember, we stepped-off the boat, so we started pretty close to the dock with this neutral conditions approach...]
It takes about 5-10 seconds the first time you do it...
The boat isn't going to go anywhere, and no helpers on the dock are pulling your bow or stern line making you go cockeyed... [This is not a difficult maneuver with a little practice- even if single handing in the wind...]
If there are helpers at the dock, the breast line is the only line we would hand them initially. Not bow or stern [for reasons already mentioned, above...]
Here is a good article about using a breast line— with illustrations.
Note that bull rails are typically set back a few inches from the edge of the dock. This helps prevent line handlers from getting an appendage caught between the boat and the dock. [We call this becoming a human fender... not recommended...]
2) Less than ideal conditions:
[e.g., windy, adverse current, close quarters maneuvering, etc.]
When we cannot get close enough to the dock to safely step off, we have two other approaches we typically use:
A) Grappling hook:
These can be useful when you are too far from the dock to step off, but the potential for inflicting damage to yourself, your boat, the dock, or other individuals or vessels is pronounced. [And unless they collapse— like some dinghy anchors— they are a pain to store...
Instead we use a purpose designed Easy Docker for grabbing bull rails:
[Unfortunately, the Easy Docker website no longer exists...]
Demo using the EZ Docker [by the inventor]
B) Docking spring line:
Another method is 'lassoing' the end of the bull rail with a balanced spring line as we approach parallel to a dock. [Typically bow in.]
Balanced spring line?
A line with a loop [bowline] on the dock end [for lassoing the end of the bull rail...] which emanates from the vessel's point of balance.
Balance point? [In this case docking bow in— forward gear.]
This is the fairlead/attachment point a balanced spring is lead from where— after the line is made fast to the dock and boat— as you slowly power [with little, if any helm...] it will draw the boat to the dock and hold it there— still in gear— as you step off [cautiously; facing the boat— like a ladder...] and make fast the temporary breast line [#1, above].
We run the docking [balanced] spring line through this fairlead and then either to the midship cleat, or a return [snatch] block fastened to that cleat and then back to a primary winch for controlling that line from the helm... [Very handy when single handing a bow in approach...]
If you wish to learn much more about implementing and using a balanced spring line for docking and close quarter maneuvering, read this excellent series of articles. [The modest membership fee is well worth it for us...]
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Close examination reveals it is more than just a simple hook; it has well thought out 3 dimensional geometry that makes it work every time on our 6 inch square bull rails- and even the larger 8 inch square rails with a little practice...
It is extremely well made, and we highly recommend it... |
B) Docking spring line:
Another method is 'lassoing' the end of the bull rail with a balanced spring line as we approach parallel to a dock. [Typically bow in.]
Balanced spring line?
A line with a loop [bowline] on the dock end [for lassoing the end of the bull rail...] which emanates from the vessel's point of balance.
Balance point? [In this case docking bow in— forward gear.]
This is the fairlead/attachment point a balanced spring is lead from where— after the line is made fast to the dock and boat— as you slowly power [with little, if any helm...] it will draw the boat to the dock and hold it there— still in gear— as you step off [cautiously; facing the boat— like a ladder...] and make fast the temporary breast line [#1, above].
Many commercial fishing boats we have observed docking in slips often enter bow in, just kissing the dock with their bow. sometimes with the engine still in forward gear to hold the boat steady [depending upon conditions] They then step off the boat and secure their dock lines.You need to experiment with your boat to determine where that point of balance is... [most vessels have one...]
It may be worth noting the balance point will likely be different when docking stern to. [in reverse...] On our boat, the midship cleat is close enough to being the spring balance point when we are backing while docking.The designers of our boat [Sparkman and Stephens] added a fairlead in the toe rail right at both [port and starboard] docking spring line bow in balance points [i.e., the balance points when approaching bow first— in forward gear. Brilliant!]
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| Close-up of the docking spring fairlead. |
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| Another view showing the midship cleat and fairlead [far right in image] and the docking [balanced] spring fairlead [with a fender line running vertically through it; left in image.] |
We run the docking [balanced] spring line through this fairlead and then either to the midship cleat, or a return [snatch] block fastened to that cleat and then back to a primary winch for controlling that line from the helm... [Very handy when single handing a bow in approach...]
If you wish to learn much more about implementing and using a balanced spring line for docking and close quarter maneuvering, read this excellent series of articles. [The modest membership fee is well worth it for us...]
How do we secure dock lines to bull rails?
We always deploy at least one of each of the following docklines: [And more as needed for conditions and circumstances...]
- Bow line
- Stern line
- Fore and aft springlines
This allows us to work from our deck to adjust the bow and stern lines— as well as easily slip them when departing...
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This photo was taken after being at the dock for 3 straight months in winter.
The spring line rolling hitches were never retied, and only adjusted once— to remove a small amount of 'stretch' after a strong windstorm.
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Our spring lines [one line really— with the middle cowhitched to a breast cleat] originate from amidship and are lead around the bull rail and one of the bull rail supports. Each end is then lead back to itself and secured with a couple of rolling hitches. This allows for easy spring line adjustments without having to untie/uncleat anything... [particularly handy in sporty conditions...]
This method holds extremely well in any blow, and still allows you to safely adjust the docklines while on deck. The springlines are adjusted on the dock by sliding the rolling hitches one way or the other. [No need to fumble untying/tying knots in inclement conditions...]
We secure all four of these regular dock lines while the temporary breast line is still in place— only removing it after our standard dock lines are all made fast.
Why not run lines around the bull rail itself?
Often we do— especially when a vertical support isn't conveniently located, or is abrasive.
Notice how dock lines have burnished this well seasoned bull rail over decades of use:
When securing dock lines to a bull rail, we lead the line from the boat under the bull rail, then back to the boat over the top of the rail. [i.e., line 'on a bight'] This is necessary when the vertical bull rail supports are not conveniently located, or of a rough material that might damage our lines.
Why run the line from the boat under the bull rail; then back to the boat over the top?
When adjusting those lines or departing the dock, you can handle them from the deck of the boat: just uncleat the line on the boat and toss over the bull rail onto the dock. It retrieves without friction or tangle by just pulling it under the bull rail.
If you went over the top of the bull rail and then under back to the boat, you end up with the line wrapped around the bull rail as you retrieve from the boat...
Other methods we sometimes use for securing docks lines to bull rails include: [especially when a line isn't long enough, or it is inconvenient to loop back to the boat...]
Basically, there are as many ways to secure a vessel to bull rails as there are boats...
Do we ever get splinters?
Absolutely!
Soft lines snag like silk stockings on rough wooden bull rails. Lines with splinters in them are hazardous to handle [who said meathooks can't be made of wood?...] Therefore we use good hard 3-strand line of appropriate size for our vessel [1"] with no snagging issues. [Soft laid 3-strand line, brait, etc. would be just as bad as double- braid...]
And of course, most of the above information also applies to docks that have cleats, rings, bollards, etc.
Please share your favorite methods for dealing with bull rails...
This method holds extremely well in any blow, and still allows you to safely adjust the docklines while on deck. The springlines are adjusted on the dock by sliding the rolling hitches one way or the other. [No need to fumble untying/tying knots in inclement conditions...]
We secure all four of these regular dock lines while the temporary breast line is still in place— only removing it after our standard dock lines are all made fast.
We typically reverse this order when departing the dock: [situations and conditions pending...]
Most of the time when preparing for departure from a dock [always depending upon conditions...] we first re-install the temporary breast line and then remove the spring lines. This is all done from the dock.
The remaining dock lines are slipped from the boat. [bow, stern, and temporary breast line] The temporary breast line is typically the last to be slipped before departing the dock...
Why not run lines around the bull rail itself?
Often we do— especially when a vertical support isn't conveniently located, or is abrasive.
Notice how dock lines have burnished this well seasoned bull rail over decades of use:
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| We are often asked if the wind blows much up here... Those grooves were created by ropes on wood over time... |
When securing dock lines to a bull rail, we lead the line from the boat under the bull rail, then back to the boat over the top of the rail. [i.e., line 'on a bight'] This is necessary when the vertical bull rail supports are not conveniently located, or of a rough material that might damage our lines.
Why run the line from the boat under the bull rail; then back to the boat over the top?
When adjusting those lines or departing the dock, you can handle them from the deck of the boat: just uncleat the line on the boat and toss over the bull rail onto the dock. It retrieves without friction or tangle by just pulling it under the bull rail.
If you went over the top of the bull rail and then under back to the boat, you end up with the line wrapped around the bull rail as you retrieve from the boat...
Other methods we sometimes use for securing docks lines to bull rails include: [especially when a line isn't long enough, or it is inconvenient to loop back to the boat...]
Basically, there are as many ways to secure a vessel to bull rails as there are boats...
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| Lines don't need to be this tight... |
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| This happened over one winter... |
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| ...or this loose... |
Do we ever get splinters?
Absolutely!
Soft lines snag like silk stockings on rough wooden bull rails. Lines with splinters in them are hazardous to handle [who said meathooks can't be made of wood?...] Therefore we use good hard 3-strand line of appropriate size for our vessel [1"] with no snagging issues. [Soft laid 3-strand line, brait, etc. would be just as bad as double- braid...]
Soft hand dock lines don't work well with wood bull rails due to snaging and splinters... And besides, double-braid lines don't stretch enough anyway and are therefore a poor choice for dock lines anywhere you might get some wind or waves...I hope some of this is useful to those of you who may not be familiar with docks having bull rails.
And of course, most of the above information also applies to docks that have cleats, rings, bollards, etc.
Please share your favorite methods for dealing with bull rails...
As a rule we tie up to bullrails by passing the line over the rail, then under and back over giving us one complete wrap. This allows the person on the dock to stop and hold the boat if necessary. I usually re-run the lines under then back over to the boat as part of getting ready to depart.
ReplyDeleteGood writeup. Having rarely sailed in waters where cleats are prevalent, I am always scratching my head when people deride bullrails—they just make sense to me.
Thank you, Bruce.
DeleteYour point about the line handler possibly having to hold the vessel while on the dock is a valid one, and your approach very straight forward.
A couple of times our boat surprized me after I did an easy step-off, and then discovered I couldn't safely get the line back to the midship cleat as I usually do... Since I had run the line under the bull rail, my rapid recourse was to take a couple of quick turns on the standing portion of the line— creating something like a 'live' rollling hitch. [This also kept my hands and arms from being in a pinch point between boat and dock/rail. It worked, but I think would prefer as you described and have a complete turn around the bull rail instead for improved friction...
I also prefer bull rails compared to cleats, rings, and having to sling the boat between several pilings. What I find the least fun are non-floating docks/quays... Thankfully there are few in our waters we need to use... [Tidal grids excepted...]
Nice writeup Bill. I now have to practice my rolling hitch. That is a too simple way to adjust one's lines with a minimum of fuss.
ReplyDeleteWe use the breast line technique but use a eye mounted on our genoa track as a fairlead to our winch. That way Melissa can grind us in a bit if the boat starts to drift away after our initial contact. Keeping a little forward way usually does the trick though.
Love those aluminum toe rails and fairleads. Very practical.
Thank you Mike!
DeleteLet me know how you like using rolling hitches for line adjustments. I've been doing it for so long I'm probably a bit set in my ways... Sometimes after ours have been rain soaked then really dried out [or when frozen...] I find I need to douse them with a bucket of salt water before the knots will readily slide on the standing portion of the line they are tied around...
I like the toe rails too. This is my 3rd boat with them. We used to have to buy these beautiful [and $$$] Wichard fittings that attached to the toe rail [stainless fitting with a polyeurathane insert] to attach anything of substance to the toe rails.
Fast forward: Dyneema soft shackles [and climbing slings...] to the rescue...