Feline Crew Ladder

We love our feline crew.

If they go for a swim while we are at anchor, we want them to be able to self-rescue.

Since our boat has no swim platform, we braided some stiff, old, retired docklines [3/4” 3-strand nylon] into a feline crew ladder- which we always deploy when at anchor. [That crew has no free roaming deck privileges when underway…] 

We left a loop at the top for hanging on a cleat, and clubbed the bottom. It extends about a foot below the water surface, so could never get caught up in the high speed underwater winch, but facilitates use by a swimming gato. 

To introduce it to the crew when it was new, we temporarily fastened it to the mast and anointed it with catnip…

We made this hawse ladder several years ago,  and it has held up well [and thankfully has yet to be used.]

We sometimes spend weeks at a time lying at anchor, so the underwater portion of the rope will invite some growth and creatures. It is easily cleaned when we forget to retrieve it while getting underway, and is ultimately dragged along in the water at 6-8 knots for a while…  

Yes, we are occasionally asked by other boaters [a rare occurrence where we hang out…] what it is for…

Tidbit: Diesel Fireplace Heater- Tips for Installation and Use

This is one of a series of brief, no nonsense posts that we call a Tidbit:

noun; small and [possibly] particularly interesting items of gossip or information...

The purpose is to share succinct posts about lessons learned, or things we use or do that work [or don't...] that are common to many of us boaters. 

The goal is to garner feedback from those of you having first-hand experience with a better approach/ solution/ product...  

We never assume what we are sharing is the ideal or only; it just seems to best suit our needs [and/or habits and/or budget] from our experiences thus far...

Sometimes these Tidbits originate from a topic of discussion on one of the forums we participate in, and this happens to be one. [The original forum response- which includes additional details- is linked below.]

Since we encounter this question fairly often- and since it may affect other boaters- it made sense to post a more detailed response for future reference.

                   ➛ ➛ Peruse the right-hand sidebar for the up-to-date list of Tidbits ➛ ➛                   

It is rare to find a vessel that doesn't have some type of non forced-air diesel heater up here. 

Some people report continuing issues with sooting on deck using this kind of heater.

This post is a quick brain dump listing installation and usage parameters I have found to help minimize sooting. I ​rarely see any dirty decks​- ​but it can happen.​ 

Below I'll list the ranked causes of sooting with this kind of heater that I've experienced​ over time.

​I have had heaters like this on 4 of 5 boats I've owned over the past 4 decades. All were full time cruisers I used in higher latitudes. (>56°N in the Pacific.)​

​In Fall 2021 installed a​ Sig Marine 120 (pretty equivalent to the Dickinson Newport) ​on our current boat. In winter it ​is only been off a handful of times (when the boat is unoccupied) since November while we work on some winter projects at the dock. No soot. No backdrafting. (But we have been using this type of heater in 4 boats over the past 4 decades, so the learning curve is well absorbed.)

We find the heater output is too much in our 43 ft ​ketch if ambient temps are ​in the 40's °F. We then have to open ports and hatches to keep from overheating on the lowest setting- ​if we do light it in those temps...​ (This boat has several redundant sources of heat.)​

Our ​SIGMAR ​heater is on the lowest setting most of the time- ​sometimes elevated ​closer ​to a medium setting when ​its single digits above zero F and blowing outside...

What ​experience can I share specifically about this size and type of heater with a 3" flue​?​ (Following is a ​dense ​​overview full of hints about things I think I have learned over time- only for those truly interested...)

Here is Dickinson's version for reference.


Installation is important:

• Keep ​the total ​flue length ​a ​minimum of 6 ft, max of 8 ft
  
  
• Straight flue is best. 
• ​I​f you must dog​-​leg​ the​ flue​, don't use more than 2 elbows, and use the smallest angle you can- with nothing greater than 45°.
  

The barometric damper is properly adjusted in this photo of the heater in use.

The shield installed on top of the angled flue [to help shield the headliner]  and the vertical solid filler [right in photo] behind the perforated flue guard [left, but not showing much in this photo, but is prominent in the first photo of this post] were both fashioned from pieces cut from a single snap together 3" SS flue pipe.

• Install a barometric damper​ [see above photo]
• Locate it​ no further than 24 inches from where the flue exits the heater​, and no closer to the heater than 12 inches. 
• Be sure they are improperly installed and adjusted.
• Carefully adjust the ​barometric ​damper per manufacturer's instructions​ (I inserted a photo of our barometric damper with the heater on low, above, for reference.)​
• Most complaints about sooting are about installs lacking a barometric damper (and occasionally from improper adjustment of one that is installed.)

• Use an H cap​ (Charley-Nobel) in breezy conditions​. We have found it to be consistently better at handling wind gusts than the round version​ (in our testing and experience​.)

  

This is our typical flue set-up if expecting windy conditions. The flue extension length was determined by testing different lengths and caps during the same steady 20kt wind conditions. 

As mentioned in the main text, this 3" flue gets covered with a 4" flue sleave [note to self; need photo...] in cold weather to help maintain inner flue temperature, and consequently draft. [This 4" flue cover adds the side benefit of being cooler, and thus less threatening to bare skin and meltable fabrics the crew might be wearing in winter.]

We remove the flue and cap it off when not at anchor or at the dock; photo further down.

 

​ We sometimes use a round cap in calm conditions- typically fringe heating season overnighters.

• If planning to use the heater in temps cooler than about +20°F [-7°C] for extended periods, have a length of larger diameter flue pipe [4 inch diameter covers our main 3 inch flue well] you can ​temporarily ​slide over the primary flue above deck to provide a layer of insulation- helping ​to ​keep the main flue warm​ to promote a consistent draft in cold weather.​
• This insuilating sleave adds the side benefit of being cooler, and thus less threatening to bare skin and meltable fabrics the crew might be wearing in winter.

• Duct combustion air from ​an ​enclosed, vented space (our's draws from the engine room. This is where the bulk of the soot will go if you ever suffer an extreme backdraft.​ More below.)​
  
  
• Install a gravity feed day tank if you don't want to listen to a fuel pump burp every second or so while running the heater.
• Install a valve on the tank before the fuel hose.
  
  (Our day tank is filled by the 12 volt fuel pump that runs the tank transfer/polishing loop.)

• The day tank overflows back into the starboard fuel tank when full.

• Install a small shut-off valve at the fuel inlet on the heater. Develop the habit of closing it when the heater is off.
  
  This is a safety against fuel flowing through the overflow- draining the day tank- in the future when the small o-ring on the carburetor needle valve tip fails. (Ask me how I know this.)

• ​Run the overflow from the carburetor to the fuel tank if possible (vs. an overflow bottle.)
  
  If you do this, install a valve on that port on the heater, and remember to close that valve temporarily when fueling the tank the return goes to- but only if you don't want to back-fill the heater if you overfill the boat. (i.e., fuel up the fuel fill hose- which will be higher than the heater carburetor...)​
  
  
• ​Remove the above deck portion of the flue when the heater is not in use for extended periods, and always before getting underway.
  
  Secure the flue opening with the water tight cap made for the through-deck fitting installed on your boat.

  

Operational considerations:

• #1 diesel (AKA Heating oil​;​ kerosene​)​ burns much cleaner than #2 (The carburetor must be adjusted to match fuel selected​. See manufacturer's instructions.​)
  
  
• When first turning on fuel after preheat, ​set to medium ​flame size for at least 10 mins to warm the heater and flue. Then start turning ​it ​up/ down a little bit at a time- pausing a few minuites between adjustments for the heater to equilibrate to the new setting.​ (This is not a thermostat; it is a fuel flow meter... give the heater time to adjust to each new setting.​)

What causes sooting? (Note that sooting either vents out of flue top onto the deck, or when back​ ​pressured into boat via the combustion air intake in the bottom of the heater.)​ If [when?] it happens, either Krud Kutter, Davis FSR, and Someone To Do It cream cleaner are the magical soot removers...

Following are the primary reasons sooting occurs, in order of their occurrence from my experience.​

• Cause #1: Preheating the heater using diesel fuel ​with a tissue paper ​wick as the manual instructs. This causes a build up of soot in the flue and in the bottom of the burn chamber over time.
  
  Instead, we use ab​o​ut 3/4 of an ounce of denatured alcohol [AKA alcohol stove fuel; typically available where paint is sold]- and​ a long neck lighter instead of​ tissue paper​​ to ignite it. We​ pour the alcohol into the middle of the COLD heater chamber, turn ​the ​combustion air fan on low; lite ​the ​alcohol​ (the fan being on keeps the alcohol from 'poofing' when you light it.)​ When the alcohol flame starts going below the burner ring​ (​2-3 mins on average​) turn on the fuel flow to a medium setting, and t​urn off ​the ​combustion air fan​ (​unless it is blowing outside... more on that, below.​)​
  
  
• Cause #2: On our stove, we ALWAYS make sure the flame is above the 'top burner ring' otherwise there is too much combustion air and not enough fuel = soot. Slightly increase the fuel flow to correct this issue.
  
  Side Note: that top burner ring is removable. Don't assume it is installed correctly. It can also cause a miriad of flame and soot issues if incorrectly installed. (Read the manual!)
  
  
• Cause #3: Too much fuel and not enough combustion air = SOOT! (i.e., Too large of a flame.)
  
  Either decrease fuel flow, or turn the combustion air fan on and adjust the air flow to optimize the flame.
  
  I believe this is the #1 cause of sooting on deck: people turning the heater up too high in hopes of heating the boat faster.
  
  
• Related Cause #3.5: As the heater warms after being first lit, in a few hours the carburetor will warm, thinning the fuel it contains, thereby causing the fuel to flow faster. This results in the flame size slowly increasing- perhaps unnoticed- and possibly getting large enough to cause sooting as described in #3.
  
  Be aware of this, and keep an eye on the flame. Always.
  
  
• Cause #4: Rapid wind gusts (over 35 knots for our installation) COMBINED with negative static pressure inside the boat​​ can snuff out the flame and cause a woof when the still flowing fuel reignites in the hot burn chamber- blowing soot out every small crack and the flue and air intake openings. This is the most dreaded.
  
  It ​sometimes ​happens to us when we experience katabatic gusts (williwaws)- typically in glacial fjords in certain conditions. Think zero to 60 knots in ​under 10​ seconds.​
  
  S​ometimes ​slightly opening a hatch or port will help ​prevent a negative static pressure inside the boat ​in catabatic conditions​; ​and sometimes turning on the combustion air fan​ ​and increasing its speed to balance the wind gusts​-​ or a combination- ​helps prevent the flameouts.​

• Cause #5: [A minor contributor] When turning off the heater (by stopping the flow of fuel) turn the combustion fan on low for the few minutes [~10] it takes for the flame to completely extinguish. (A tiny flame flickers in the bottom of the burn pot for several minutes- burning off residule fuel.) Running the combustion fan during cool-down helps prevent small amounts of soot and smoke, and clears fuel odors from the heater.

I hope this quick brain dump is useful, and that I didn't forget anything critical.

These heaters are very ​safe if installed properly, and ​worthwhile if you ​are patient enough to learn how to use them. It is important to be very observant as you go through the learning curve of using and adjusting this type of heater​, and develop the habit of scrutinizing the flame (and adjusting when necessary) on a routine basis. ​

​We love the fireplace ambience that comes with the nice radiant heat.​

Do you have any tips and tricks to share on this topic?

_________________________

Link to original forum post 1-Feb-2023 which spawned this blog post.

PS: We are occasionally asked about how we installed the through-deck plate [AKA deck iron] when some of you notice we didn't use the typical teak ring to account for the deck angle.

Ignore the chain hook and line which shows in the two photos preceeding this one.

I was using a line to keep a small amount of tension on the top flue so it didn't lean over before the gasket set-up.

We used Sikaflex 291. [Paintable; sandable; heat resistent; can also be used underwater...]

Here are the basic steps we took to install the deck iron using Sikaflex as the spacer:  [Sorry, I was by myself and it wasn't convenient to take photos of every step along the way...] In fact, I suspect it took me almost as long to detail the following in writing as it did to perform the install - not including locating and cutting the flue clearance hole through the deck...

After the hole is made through the deck: [Measure 99+ times, then drill a small pilot hole to confirm (e.g.,  A 1/8" hole that can easily be epoxied closed if the position is incorrect...)  Then cut the main flue clearance hole as recommended by the manufacturer...]

Then...

1. Set the deck iron flat on the deck [no wedge yet] centered over the hole.
2. Rotate it so that the fasteners fall where you prefer them to be.
3. Apply wide painter's tape [e.g., 2" wide] around the perimeter of the deck iron, with the centerline of the tape on the joint between deck and deck iron [half the tape width on the deck iron, the other half on the deck.]
4. Mark where you will drill the pilot holes for your fasteners of choice.
5. Carefully slice the tape at the very edge of the deck iron with a very sharp blade.
6. Lift the deck iron from the deck and firmly press all remaining tape edges down onto the deck and the deck iron perimeter. 
1. This is what will keep the Sikaflex edge neat when you are finished- with little to no clean-up needed.
7. Insert a short length [e.g., 3" long] piece of oversize flue [4" to go around our 3" main flue] into the deck iron. Either glue it in place [a day or two before install; Sikaflex or hot melt glue would work] or use tape around the outside perimeter of the oversize flue sleave inside the deck iron. 
1. This short piece of oversized flue serves as both additional fire proofing between the main [small diameter] flue and the edges of the deck hole. 
2. It also prevents the Sikaflex from making contact with the main [hot] flue when you get to that step.
8. Drill the pilot holes you marked in step #4, above, for the deck iron fasteners you chose. 
1. Don't drill through to inside of boat... [future leaks]
2. Use a countersink bit to create a small fillet on top of each hole for sealant to flow into, forming a permanent O-ring style gasket for each fastener where it penetrates the deck.
3. And remember to use appropriate methodology if the deck is cored at your flue penetration location...
9. Dry-fit the deck iron with main flue installed underneath to center in the hole in the deck.
10. Remove deck iron again, and insert all fasteners through deck iron, and run a tight fitting, small diameter O-ring up each fastener to keep the deck iron flange tight against the fastener head. 
1. The O-rings will hold the deck iron in position- level above the deck- while you fit it into final position just before adding your Sikaflex gasket.
11. Put deck iron into final position, carefully screwing fasteners into pilot holes until the flange is level [not flat on the deck- unless your deck is level at that location...]  
1. The O-Rings you installed will hold it off the deck temporarily in final position.
12. Double-check that the oversized, short sleave [4" dia x 3" long in our case] and main flue [3" diameter for us] are exactly in position in the hole through the deck, and in the deck iron.
13. Fill the void between the deck and the deck iron completely with Sikaflex 291. 
1. Cut the tube to have a wide tip, and work out from the center to the circumference to help prevent air voids.
14. Once you are sure that the cavity is full of Sikaflex, run a putty knife around the circumference to shape it the way you want. 
1. The above photos were taken shortly after the tape was removed and the Sikaflex was still tacky.
15. While the Sikaflex is still tacky, remove the painter's tape from both the deck [pulling tape at an angle away from the Sikaflex] and the deck iron flange.
16. Clean up any Sikaflex that escaped the tape.
17. Before putting everything away, remember to lay a blob of Sikaflex about the size of the cross section of the thickest part of the gasket on a piece of cardboard, and set it aside near the deck iron. 
1. This will be your tell-tale indicator of how firm [or not] the Sikaflex is under the flange since you now wait a few days before putting any load on the deck iron... [I do this anytime I use any goop to seal something on the boat... Is it set yet?]
18. After a couple of weeks [or whatever Sika recommends] you can sand and/or paint your Sikaflex gasket. [We left ours as-is, and looks great to us in plain white.]

Please share your experiences and alternative approaches with us so that we- and most importantly, others- can benefit from your efforts.

Tidbit: Pilot Berth in the Pilot House?

This is one of a series of brief, no nonsense posts that we call a Tidbit:

noun; small and [possibly] particularly interesting items of gossip or information...

The purpose is to share succinct posts about lessons learned, or things we use or do that work [or don't...] that are common to many of us boaters. 

The goal is to garner feedback from those of you having first-hand experience with a better approach/ solution/ product...  

We never assume what we are sharing is the ideal or only; it just seems to best suit our needs [and/or habits and/or budget] from our experiences thus far...

Sometimes these Tidbits originate from a topic of discussion on one of the forums we participate in, and this happens to be one: Link to original post [22-Jan-2024]

Since we encounter this question on occasion, it made sense to post a more detailed response for future reference.

                               ➛ ➛ Peruse the right-hand sidebar for the up-to-date list of Tidbits ➛ ➛                               

Alternate title: Sleeping around a Centre Saloon table

---

I haven’t had a dedicated pilot berth for a couple of boats now. [Last was the Valiant Esprit 37; Bob Perry design.] I really liked that typical pilot berth. [A snug tube that would contain you in a rollover- although likely bruised and soggy afterwards.]

What do we use for a pilot/ anchor watch berth in our center cockpit, center cabin Nauticat? 

In the pilothouse, we have U-shaped seating surrounding 3 sides of a sliding, expandable [leaf] table which is mounted on a cabinet pedestal. 

The longer [hull] side makes an excellent pilot/ anchor watch berth. [Though very rarely needed…] Do a sit up and see all instruments, MFD, etc. as well as look out the pilothouse windows, and with quick access to both helms.

We are fortunate to have a second helm station in the pilot house so we don’t have to sleep in our foulies when standing the rare anchor watch. [Think of it as a nautical contribution towards aging-in-place…]

A lee cloth is permanently attached to the cabinetry under the bottom cushions parallel to- and the length of- the table. 

It is easily deployed by lacing a line between grommets along the top of lee cloth and strong eyes installed under the table top.

When a lee cloth isn’t really needed [which is our typical scenario] we instead remove the wedge shaped back cushions from the long part of the settee [against the hull] and drop them upside down [thick edge up] into the gap between the seat and cabinet- effectively widening the berth and filling the chasm most might prefer not to discover while sleeping.

It may be worth noting that this berth has been renamed by some landlubber guests in the past who didn’t study-up on their nautical jargon before visiting [as we do recommend on our Guest Page.] Typically this happens when our overnight guest count exceeds the number of available guest berths [very rare as we can sleep 8 without becoming overly friendly]  and occasionally when guests- who normally share sleeping accommodations- decide [not always mutually] not to [for reasons unknown to us.]

Our other dog house offers very remote [and very basic] accommodation, but also include something unique: a guest selectable degree of separation [length of dinghy painter…]

Both are great locations for a nap, too [weather pending…] And either could be used while underway! [Again, Wx pending…]

_________________________________

Related Posts:

Sleeping well at anchor

Cleaning; Treating; Sanitizing; Corrosion, Mold & Odor Control [Updated Nov-2025]

With preparations for an upcoming season of boating beginning for many, we are publishing our updated, extensive list of tried and true products (as described in the title) we use and highly recommend in case you find it helpful. 

★ Some excellent recent additions/ discoveries of note are flagged with a red star.

Please let us know of any products you use that you feel we should try.

  ➛ ➛ From our list of Stuff we have and use [and do...] in the right sidebar ➛ ➛   

Following are the products we keep onboard, and what we use them for. 

The selection comes from many years of reading hints from others as well as buying and trying many of the touted and recommended assortments of lotions and potions at one time or another. 

Categories include: [in order presented]

★ =  Recent additions/ updates

• ★ Microfiber towel rolls [washable; saves 60+% paper towel usage...]
• Odor Control/ Removal
• ★ Cleaning/ Degreasing/ Stain Removal
• Sanitizing
• Laundry
• Toilets, Shower Sumps and Sink Drains 
  
• Holding Tanks
• Bilge
• ★ Sunbrella [canvas]
• Ropes/Lines [cleaning; treat to reduce water retention and help prevent freezing in winter]
• ★ Mold, Algae, and Mildew Control [Also: Keep your deck from turning green...]
• Descaling
• Corrosion Prevention/Removal
  
• Bronze [and Brass...] Cleaning and Polishing

Before continuing on this page, take a few minutes to read this excellent article from Practical Sailor . It helped us to better understand what cleaners to use for what, and how to make our own formulations to beat 'boat tax' pricing on some commonly used potions...

We have reduced our inventory to the following few products that seem to work the best for us [and are economic, low toxicity and volatility (where possible), and readily available...]

We carry concentrates when available and cost-effective. [e.g., 1 Gallon of bleach concentrate makes up to 100 gallons of household bleach when diluted with water, but is very caustic if spilled... Likewise for vinegar and others as noted, below.]

A wise precaution is to read and download [you may not have internet access when you need the information...] all the Safety Data Sheets [SDS] about each product you keep onboard. It is useful when questions about the product arise, and in case there is an accident. 

What are your favorite products? Please also leave a comment if you have used what we list below and have found something better, or have suggested additions.

––––––––––––

★ Microfiber towel rolls [for use with cleaners and polishers listed below; washable; saves 60+% paper towel usage...]

Odor Control/ Removal

• PureAyre Marine Enzyme works great for eliminating odors including head, gasoline and diesel
• Medi-Aire Biological Odor Eliminator [Eliminates any odors of biological origin e.g., urine, vomit, smoke, etc.]
• Manufacturer's Info
• We prefer the unscented version
• Pricing varies; Shop carefully.
• Borax for removing diesel fuel odors - works on clothes too
• White Vinegar [See Cleaning/Degreasing, below, for concentrate for diluting]
• Baking Soda
• 55 uses for baking soda [and there are many more...]
• References:
• The New Getting Rid of Boat Odors [By Peggie Hall. Highly recommended]

Cleaning/ Degreasing/ Stain Removal

• ★ Someone To Do It [Cream Cleaner] This is a 'Where have you been all my life' find! [Thank you Robin!] This is the absolute best hull, etc. cleaning product. The only product we have found that easily and completely removes diesel exhaust stains from our AwlGrip painted hull. It reduces the number cleaning products we keep on board, and is cheap!
• Super Clean [The best we have found so far for removing most diesel exhaust stains (soot) from the hull... A good degreaser (think BBQ...) and nonskid cleaner; avoid breathing overspray... (consequently we mainly use outdoors)]
• Krud Kutter is a great water based cleaner/degreaser for routine cleaning. [No volatile fumes from solvents- but is still smells a little funky to us... ] 
• Manufacturer's Info [There are many specific types of Krud Kutter]
• Original Version [the one we typically use...]
• SDS
• Oil Eater [The absolute best stuff for cleaning up oil spills on the boat, and cheap! Although the WD40 Specialist water based Degreaser (further below) is giving it a challenge...]
• Dawn liquid dish detergent [We wish they had an unscented version...]
• White Vinegar [Grocery store vinegar is 3% acetic acid. You can buy concentrated versions...] to reduce storage requirements by making your own batches of 3% by adding water. e.g., 30% Vinegar; [This is non-consumable garden grade vinegar]
• Read this discussion about concentrated vinegar
• Buy food grade and dilute to 3% if you plan to use in food
• Concentrated bleach [Not the grocery store variety... 1 gallon can dilute to make 100 gallons of grocery store bleach.... good for cleaning stubborn deck stains, mold and mildew on non-fabrics, etc. Very caustic! Store carefully...]
• Stains on fiberglass:
• SoftScrub
• Ospho [also in Corrosion Prevention/Removal section, below]
• Baking Soda
• 50+ uses for baking soda
• Starbrite Rust and Stain Remover [Safely and easily removes rust stains from our AwlGrip painted hull and deck]
• ★ WD40 Specialist [water based] Degreaser and Cleaner [Excellent water based degreaser; can therefore be mailed USPS]
• Available as water soluble pods so we can make it as strong or weak as needed.
• Think engine room, degreasing winches when servicing, etc.

Sanitizing

• White vinegar [See concentrated vinegar info under Cleaning/Degreasing, above]
• Neutra Sul HP41N Professional Grade Oxidizer [shelf stable 7% hydrogen peroxide] 
• For treating previously treated potable water for hydrogen sulfide odors and iron contamination.
• Also removes vestiges of bleach after sanitizing with bleach. 
• Manufacturer information
• Bleach [We carry a concentrate that makes 50-100+ gallons from 1 gallon...]
• 1 tsp of 5.25% sodium hypochlorite [unscented household bleach] in 50 gallons of water yields ~ 2ppm [the minimum concentration for sanitizing...]
• We use up to 6ppm in potable water for sanitizing water ,tanks, and plumbing.
• Practical Sailor article with detailed instructions for sanitizing water systems.
• Sporicidin [Removes mold, stains, and odors; bacteriostatic for 6 months. Used in hospitals. Available in concentrate. Look for unscented.]

Laundry

• Oxyclean [we prefer unscented; use with your detergent of choice- also add borax for strong odor removal] 
• Also good for other cleaning chores- including sails...
• Add ~1/2 tsp to composting toilet urine jug to eliminate odors and scale
• Detergent of choice [we use HE non-scented detergent with our front-loading washer]
• White Vinegar [see info above about concentrate; dilute to use against certain odors]
• Ammonia [Great in super greasy loads... Don't use on wool!]
• Pre-stain treatment: Shout and/or Resolve Stick [Oxyclean also makes a pre-stain treatment]  

Toilets, Shower Sumps and Sink Drains 

• Raritan CP [Bio-enzymatic toilet cleaner; shop around as pricing varies]
• Keeps the shower sump and sink drains crud free too... [And clears plugged drains...]

Holding Tanks

• Marine Digest It  Enzyme [Excellent for dissolving soap scum, clogs, liquifying contents, and eliminating odors. Use regularly per instructions. 1 qt bottle lasts us 6+ months. Safe for pets.]

Bilge

• TUF-ENUF BILGE Natural Bilge Cleaner bacterial bilge cleaner [Eats oil, fuel, etc. Deodorizes. Pricing varies. ]

Sunbrella

• Waterproofing: 303 Fabric Guard
• Mold/Mildew stain removal: 
• ★ RMR Brands Complete Mold Killer & Stain Remover Bundle [Excellent results!] 
• Two different liquids: Disinfectant and Mold and Mildew remover
• Available cheaply in gallons
• Starbrite mildew stain remover [Usurped by RMR. Now the strong second choice]
• Homemade Formula B [Drew Frye: Borax; TSP;  Baking Soda (sodium bicarbonate)]

Ropes/Lines

• Cleaning [See this Practical Sailor how-to] 
• We achieve good results using our unscented HD plant based laundry detergent, above
• We also treat with Wet & Forget to arrest green growth over time [algae, mildew, etc.]
• See Mold and Mildew Prevention, below
• Conditioning; Improve water resistance and instill freeze proofing [for winter boating]
• NikWax Polar Proof [also for waterproofing fleece garments]
• ★ Nikwax Rope Proof [relatively new; Subjectively we think the results on rope are similar to Polar Proof, above;  Practical Sailor review.]

Mold and Mildew Control and Prevention

Removing stains:

• Best at removing stains and initial control: [In order of effectiveness.]
• ★ RMR Brands Complete Mold Killer & Stain Remover Bundle [Excellent results!] 
• Two different liquids: Disinfectant and Mold and Mildew remover
• Available cheaply in gallons
• Starbrite mildew stain remover [Strong second choice; formerly first choice]
• Also read this article about making your own formulations
• Heavy duty removal and control: Sporicidin [Removes mold, stains, and odors; bacteriostatic for 6 months. Used in hospitals. Available in concentrate.]
  

Prevention:

• ★ Best ever treatment for keeping algae and mildew [green] off the deck, out of lines, canvas, sails, etc.  Wet & Forget concentrate.  [Thank you Mellisa and Mike! We apply this each fall and never have any green develop on our deck, lines, sails, etc. Safe for pets. Cheap. This stuff really works!!]
• ★ RMR Brands Complete Mold Killer & Stain Remover Bundle [Excellent results!] 
• Two different liquids: Disinfectant and Mold and Mildew remover
• Available cheaply in gallons
• Long term, economical, non-volatile and non-toxic control: Concrobium Mold Control 
• Manufacturer's info
• SDS
• Make your own Concrobium
• SunPac mildewcide and mold inhibitor [For uninhabited spaces. e.g., long term mildew prevention in boat, vehicle, camper, etc. when away for extended periods. Area must be ventilated with fresh air before occupying. [Paraformaldehyde has no detable odor, so leave yourself a note in the treated space...]
  

Related Resources:

• Practical Sailor e-books re: Mildew

Descaling

• CLR [Calcium, Lime, and Rust remover]
• Safe [for us and metals]; very effective; available most everywhere; cheap vs. specialty products
• Our uses include: 
• Descaling plumbing [e.g., A/C coolant plumbing, salt water flush head plumbing, etc.] 
• Descaling  engine raw water cooling circuits [e.g., heat exchangers, outboard engine flushing, etc.]
• Removing rust stains on fiberglass
• Removing hard water deposits in shower stalls, sinks, etc. 
• Practical Sailor article about descaling solutions

Corrosion Prevention/Removal

• Rust Prevention:
• Tools and spare parts: 
• ZeRust products of choice
• We use a lot of the ZeRust drawer liner for lining tool boxes and wrapping spare parts before shrink wrapping and/or vacuum bagging
• Corrosion-X
• We even spray our bronze through-hull valves, raw water strainers, etc. to keep them pristine [not green...] Results last for years.
• Rust removal: 
• ★ Evapo-Rust Water based; safe; no fumes; can therefore be mailed USPS [Thank you David J!]
• Manufacturer's info 
• Ospho
• Also great for removing stubborn stains from fiberglass... [rinse immediately...]
• Starbrite Rust and Stain Remover [Safely removes rust from our AwlGrip painted hull and deck. ]
• Spotless Stainless [removes rust stains from stainless steel, and re-passivates the surface to help prevent rust and stains; Manufacturer info]
• Most effective above 70°F...
• CLR [Calcium, Lime, and Rust remover; see Descaling, above]
• Loosening frozen fasteners:  e.g., loosening stainless steel bolts stuck in aluminum; rusty engine bolts, etc.
• PB Blaster
• Weasel Piss [50% acetone and 50% ATF (automatic transmission fluid) Works really well...]
• Corrosion and seizing prevention: 
• Lanocote
• e.g., electrical connections; rigging turnbuckle threads; SS fastener threads, etc.
• Tef-Gel
• e.g., SS Fasteners- especially SS used with aluminum

Bronze [and Brass...] Cleaning and Polishing

• Five proven home brews [Practical Sailor]  
• Slice a lemon in half; salt it; rub on bronze to remove green tarnish...

Boarding Ladder Considerations [Updated Jul-2023]

This is another in the series of Stuff we have and use and do...        (See right hand column =>)

It may not be of interest to many of you for various reasons. (Lucky you. So go count your blessings and read no further...)

This is more related to the higher latitudes we frequent, with the associated cooler waters...  (Or for anyone who becomes separated from the boat while underweigh...) 

We fully realize- and have personally experienced- regions of the world where one may never wish to get out of the water... This blurb is for those of us who must, for whatever reason(s).

We routinely examine the following questions when on our own boat: 

• While at anchor:
• How do we get back aboard our vessel from another craft (e.g., SUP, kayak, dinghy, etc.) 
• How about if we are in the water? (Intentionally or otherwise...)

• Our boat's freeboard is too high to pull ourselves back onto the boat.  
• Are our ladders usable and always available? 
• If not, are they readily deployable by someone in the water?

• When deployed, does a ladder extend far enough below the water surface to facilitate easy use?  (If the first rung is at water level you need to try it before depending upon it...) 
• How about if wearing diving gear? 
• Or folks not in the best of shape, or slightly injured? 

• What if someone in the water is injured? (But can still climb a ladder...)  
• Retrieving an injured person who cannot rescue themselves from the water is a different topic.

• How about at the dock? (Any dock...) 
• Just as you note the locations of fire extinguishers and escape routes when visiting another boat, you also take note of any boarding ladder locations, life rings, and fire extinguishers at all docks, right? 
• No, or none existent? Then best make sure your own boat has provisions to readily get back aboard...

Our home port slip is too high above water level to easily pull ourselves onto. (Especially without getting a belly full of splinters, or road rash...) 

Additionally, our harbor's ladders are a 200-300 yard swim for those moored near the ends of the floats. This is because there is only one ladder per fairway (Must be a legal/ insurance minimum?) And those ladders are round runged, center poled designs, so your numb, slippery feet-now bloodied after kicking off the thick layer of muscles- would try to slide off the ends of the short rungs, reaking havoc on your ankles and legs. But better than nothing...?

Since we do enough stupid stuff every year (without even trying...) to inadvertantly qualify for multiple Darwin awards- in different catagories even-  we strive (whenever possible) to avoid competing unnececessarily. (And besides, since our progeny fledged long ago- as did their's- it is way too late to stop our contributions to the gene pool...)

Therefore we do give some thought (and practice) to reboarding our boat from other floating objects- and of course the water. (Not to mention other tricky maneuvers- whether warranted or not...)

Our re-boarding ladders are extremely basic- if not ineligant- but also very sturdy and practical.

Speaking of basic: several boats ago, when I was much older and still semi-immortal, I had one of those collapsing rope ladders with hard rungs. I kept it hung over the side with a line hanging so I could yank it down into the water if needed. What a pain those are to climb, but again; better than nothing... perhaps... 

Back to the present. On our current boat, we made sure the welded, folding stainless steel ladder permanently attached to our stern can be easily deployed by someone in the water. 

Here is our very basic stern boarding ladder with 3 rungs underwater when deployed (unfolded so it extends below the water surface.) Note: Four underwater rungs might be better for SCUBA divers- and perhaps those of us with a higher than normal surface area to volume ratio...)

The next photo is what it looks like in the stowed position.

Note it is designed so it can still be used undeployed. (e.g., For accessing the dinghy, etc.)

Also note the sturdy stair treads thru-bolted to tabs welded to the stainless tubing rungs. These are much preferred to round tubing...

The [whiteish] trip-line that runs up from the wire bale (simple latch that holds the ladder in folded position, upper right, above) can be yanked from either side of the ladder by someone in the water. Pulling the trip line lifts the latch, resulting in gravity deployment of the swinging part of the ladder (the underwater portion.) 

Note to selves: keep fingers, toes, noses, and any other dangly bits well clear of the ladder hinges- and noggins out of fall path- when deploying from the water... (i.e., Make sure everyone is off to either side of the ladder before deploying.

How easy is it to access the aft deck from the boarding ladder? Our wood railing has a hinged gate in the middle of the transom to make it an easy walk-through. 

In the following image, I am standing on the ladder using my toe to lift the latch to deploy the lower portion of the ladder. (A boat hook would be safer, but less acrobatic...)  

Following is a photo of our midship boarding ladder: a folding, portable model which can be deployed anywhere along the toe rails on either side of the boat. 

Here it is shown deployed at the starboard midship lifeline gate. (The top wood rail is also hinged at this point- as in the above transom photo.)

This ladder has pins through the toe rail to secure it in place, as well as a criuser's safety line (since this ladder doesn't float...)

Also notice this portable ladder has stand-offs that bear against the hull.

Hint: Use crutch tips for this purpose. They are much sturdier and last much longer than the usual rubber caps you find in hardware stores. They also have a metal washer sandwiched in the thick foot so the tubing cannot punch through the rubber over time- tatooing the hull... (We find them in local hardware stores for ~$5/pair...)

We deploy the portable boarding ladder when at anchor- offering the rare visitor easier boarding as well as facilitating loading and unloading from other floating craft (e.g., SUP, kayak, dinghy, canoe, logs, etc.)

These are our simple methods of making sure we can always get out of the water in a hurry- even at the dock.

One final safety reminder we regale ourselves with often:  Just as we treat the edge of the deck as we would a 500 foot cliff when underweigh, we always use any ladder as though we are climbing up or down from a 2nd story roof on a house (or the boat in the yard:)  

Facing the ladder! (NOT with our back to it!) 

The same applies for companionway ladders/ steep steps, etc. (For us anyway...)

Unless, of course, one covets one of these shirts: (Lessons learned? Time will tell...)

I do my own stunts...