March 10, 2023

Cleaning; Treating; Sanitizing; Corrosion, Mold & Odor Control [Updated Nov-2025]

With preparations for an upcoming season of boating beginning for many, we are publishing our updated, extensive list of tried and true products (as described in the title) we use and highly recommend in case you find it helpful. 

★ Some excellent recent additions/ discoveries of note are flagged with a red star.

Please let us know of any products you use that you feel we should try.


  ➛ ➛ From our list of Stuff we have and use [and do...] in the right sidebar ➛ ➛   


Following are the products we keep onboard, and what we use them for. 

The selection comes from many years of reading hints from others as well as buying and trying many of the touted and recommended assortments of lotions and potions at one time or another. 

Categories include: [in order presented]

★ =  Recent additions/ updates
  • ★ Microfiber towel rolls [washable; saves 60+% paper towel usage...]
  • Odor Control/ Removal
  • ★ Cleaning/ Degreasing/ Stain Removal
  • Sanitizing
  • Laundry
  • Toilets, Shower Sumps and Sink Drains 
    • Holding Tanks
      • Bilge
      • ★ Sunbrella [canvas]
      • Ropes/Lines [cleaning; treat to reduce water retention and help prevent freezing in winter]
      • ★ Mold, Algae, and Mildew Control [Also: Keep your deck from turning green...]
        • Descaling
          • Corrosion Prevention/Removal
            • Bronze [and Brass...] Cleaning and Polishing


            Before continuing on this page, take a few minutes to read this excellent article from Practical Sailor . It helped us to better understand what cleaners to use for what, and how to make our own formulations to beat 'boat tax' pricing on some commonly used potions...

            We have reduced our inventory to the following few products that seem to work the best for us [and are economic, low toxicity and volatility (where possible), and readily available...]

            We carry concentrates when available and cost-effective. [e.g., 1 Gallon of bleach concentrate makes up to 100 gallons of household bleach when diluted with water, but is very caustic if spilled... Likewise for vinegar and others as noted, below.]

            A wise precaution is to read and download [you may not have internet access when you need the information...] all the Safety Data Sheets [SDS] about each product you keep onboard. It is useful when questions about the product arise, and in case there is an accident. 

            What are your favorite products? Please also leave a comment if you have used what we list below and have found something better, or have suggested additions.


            ––––––––––––


            ★ Microfiber towel rolls [for use with cleaners and polishers listed below; washable; saves 60+% paper towel usage...]

            Odor Control/ Removal

            Cleaning/ Degreasing/ Stain Removal
            • ★ Someone To Do It [Cream Cleaner] This is a 'Where have you been all my life' find! [Thank you Robin!] This is the absolute best hull, etc. cleaning product. The only product we have found that easily and completely removes diesel exhaust stains from our AwlGrip painted hull. It reduces the number cleaning products we keep on board, and is cheap!
            • Super Clean [The best we have found so far for removing most diesel exhaust stains (soot) from the hull... A good degreaser (think BBQ...) and nonskid cleaner; avoid breathing overspray... (consequently we mainly use outdoors)]
            • Krud Kutter is a great water based cleaner/degreaser for routine cleaning. [No volatile fumes from solvents- but is still smells a little funky to us... ] 
            • Oil Eater [The absolute best stuff for cleaning up oil spills on the boat, and cheap! Although the WD40 Specialist water based Degreaser (further below) is giving it a challenge...]
              • Dawn liquid dish detergent [We wish they had an unscented version...]
              • White Vinegar [Grocery store vinegar is 3% acetic acid. You can buy concentrated versions...] to reduce storage requirements by making your own batches of 3% by adding water. e.g., 30% Vinegar; [This is non-consumable garden grade vinegar]
              • Concentrated bleach [Not the grocery store variety... 1 gallon can dilute to make 100 gallons of grocery store bleach.... good for cleaning stubborn deck stains, mold and mildew on non-fabrics, etc. Very caustic! Store carefully...]
              • Stains on fiberglass:
              • Baking Soda
              • Starbrite Rust and Stain Remover [Safely and easily removes rust stains from our AwlGrip painted hull and deck]
              • ★ WD40 Specialist [water based] Degreaser and Cleaner [Excellent water based degreaser; can therefore be mailed USPS]
                • Available as water soluble pods so we can make it as strong or weak as needed.
                • Think engine room, degreasing winches when servicing, etc.

                Sanitizing
                • White vinegar [See concentrated vinegar info under Cleaning/Degreasing, above]
                • Neutra Sul HP41N Professional Grade Oxidizer [shelf stable 7% hydrogen peroxide] 
                  • For treating previously treated potable water for hydrogen sulfide odors and iron contamination.
                  • Also removes vestiges of bleach after sanitizing with bleach. 
                  • Manufacturer information
                • Bleach [We carry a concentrate that makes 50-100+ gallons from 1 gallon...]
                  • 1 tsp of 5.25% sodium hypochlorite [unscented household bleach] in 50 gallons of water yields ~ 2ppm [the minimum concentration for sanitizing...]
                  • We use up to 6ppm in potable water for sanitizing water ,tanks, and plumbing.
                  • Practical Sailor article with detailed instructions for sanitizing water systems.
                • Sporicidin [Removes mold, stains, and odors; bacteriostatic for 6 months. Used in hospitals. Available in concentrate. Look for unscented.]

                Laundry
                • Oxyclean [we prefer unscented; use with your detergent of choice- also add borax for strong odor removal] 
                  • Also good for other cleaning chores- including sails...
                  • Add ~1/2 tsp to composting toilet urine jug to eliminate odors and scale
                • Detergent of choice [we use HE non-scented detergent with our front-loading washer]
                • White Vinegar [see info above about concentrate; dilute to use against certain odors]
                • Ammonia [Great in super greasy loads... Don't use on wool!]
                • Pre-stain treatment: Shout and/or Resolve Stick [Oxyclean also makes a pre-stain treatment]  

                Toilets, Shower Sumps and Sink Drains 
                • Raritan CP [Bio-enzymatic toilet cleaner; shop around as pricing varies]
                  • Keeps the shower sump and sink drains crud free too... [And clears plugged drains...]

                Holding Tanks
                • Marine Digest It  Enzyme [Excellent for dissolving soap scum, clogs, liquifying contents, and eliminating odors. Use regularly per instructions. 1 qt bottle lasts us 6+ months. Safe for pets.]
                Bilge

                Sunbrella

                Ropes/Lines
                • Cleaning [See this Practical Sailor how-to] 
                  • We achieve good results using our unscented HD plant based laundry detergent, above
                  • We also treat with Wet & Forget to arrest green growth over time [algae, mildew, etc.]
                    • See Mold and Mildew Prevention, below
                • Conditioning; Improve water resistance and instill freeze proofing [for winter boating]

                Mold and Mildew Control and Prevention

                Removing stains:
                Prevention:
                • ★ Best ever treatment for keeping algae and mildew [green] off the deck, out of lines, canvas, sails, etc.  Wet & Forget concentrate.  [Thank you Mellisa and Mike! We apply this each fall and never have any green develop on our deck, lines, sails, etc. Safe for pets. Cheap. This stuff really works!!]
                • ★ RMR Brands Complete Mold Killer & Stain Remover Bundle [Excellent results!] 
                  • Two different liquids: Disinfectant and Mold and Mildew remover
                  • Available cheaply in gallons
                • Long term, economical, non-volatile and non-toxic control: Concrobium Mold Control 
                • SunPac mildewcide and mold inhibitor [For uninhabited spaces. e.g., long term mildew prevention in boat, vehicle, camper, etc. when away for extended periods. Area must be ventilated with fresh air before occupying. [Paraformaldehyde has no detable odor, so leave yourself a note in the treated space...]
                Related Resources:

                Descaling

                Corrosion Prevention/Removal
                • Rust Prevention:
                  • Tools and spare parts: 
                    • ZeRust products of choice
                    • We use a lot of the ZeRust drawer liner for lining tool boxes and wrapping spare parts before shrink wrapping and/or vacuum bagging
                    • Corrosion-X
                      • We even spray our bronze through-hull valves, raw water strainers, etc. to keep them pristine [not green...] Results last for years.
                • Rust removal: 
                • Loosening frozen fasteners:  e.g., loosening stainless steel bolts stuck in aluminum; rusty engine bolts, etc.
                  • PB Blaster
                  • Weasel Piss [50% acetone and 50% ATF (automatic transmission fluid) Works really well...]
                • Corrosion and seizing prevention: 
                  • Lanocote
                    • e.g., electrical connections; rigging turnbuckle threads; SS fastener threads, etc.
                  • Tef-Gel
                    • e.g., SS Fasteners- especially SS used with aluminum
                Bronze [and Brass...] Cleaning and Polishing
                  • Five proven home brews [Practical Sailor]  
                  • Slice a lemon in half; salt it; rub on bronze to remove green tarnish...
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                  February 22, 2023

                  Boarding Ladder Considerations [Updated Jul-2023]

                  This is another in the series of Stuff we have and use and do...        (See right hand column =>)

                  It may not be of interest to many of you for various reasons. (Lucky you. So go count your blessings and read no further...)

                  This is more related to the higher latitudes we frequent, with the associated cooler waters...  (Or for anyone who becomes separated from the boat while underweigh...) 

                  We fully realize- and have personally experienced- regions of the world where one may never wish to get out of the water... This blurb is for those of us who must, for whatever reason(s).

                  We routinely examine the following questions when on our own boat: 

                  • While at anchor:
                    • How do we get back aboard our vessel from another craft (e.g., SUP, kayak, dinghy, etc.) 
                    • How about if we are in the water? (Intentionally or otherwise...)
                  • Our boat's freeboard is too high to pull ourselves back onto the boat.  
                    • Are our ladders usable and always available? 
                      • If not, are they readily deployable by someone in the water?
                  • When deployed, does a ladder extend far enough below the water surface to facilitate easy use?  (If the first rung is at water level you need to try it before depending upon it...) 
                    • How about if wearing diving gear? 
                    • Or folks not in the best of shape, or slightly injured? 
                  • What if someone in the water is injured? (But can still climb a ladder...)  
                    • Retrieving an injured person who cannot rescue themselves from the water is a different topic.
                  • How about at the dock? (Any dock...) 
                    • Just as you note the locations of fire extinguishers and escape routes when visiting another boat, you also take note of any boarding ladder locations, life rings, and fire extinguishers at all docks, right? 
                      • No, or none existent? Then best make sure your own boat has provisions to readily get back aboard...
                  Our home port slip is too high above water level to easily pull ourselves onto. (Especially without getting a belly full of splinters, or road rash...) 
                  Additionally, our harbor's ladders are a 200-300 yard swim for those moored near the ends of the floats. This is because there is only one ladder per fairway (Must be a legal/ insurance minimum?) And those ladders are round runged, center poled designs, so your numb, slippery feet-now bloodied after kicking off the thick layer of muscles- would try to slide off the ends of the short rungs, reaking havoc on your ankles and legs. But better than nothing...?
                  Since we do enough stupid stuff every year (without even trying...) to inadvertantly qualify for multiple Darwin awards- in different catagories even-  we strive (whenever possible) to avoid competing unnececessarily. (And besides, since our progeny fledged long ago- as did their's- it is way too late to stop our contributions to the gene pool...)

                  Therefore we do give some thought (and practice) to reboarding our boat from other floating objects- and of course the water. (Not to mention other tricky maneuvers- whether warranted or not...)

                  Our re-boarding ladders are extremely basic- if not ineligant- but also very sturdy and practical.
                  Speaking of basic: several boats ago, when I was much older and still semi-immortal, I had one of those collapsing rope ladders with hard rungs. I kept it hung over the side with a line hanging so I could yank it down into the water if needed. What a pain those are to climb, but again; better than nothing... perhaps... 

                  Back to the present. On our current boat, we made sure the welded, folding stainless steel ladder permanently attached to our stern can be easily deployed by someone in the water. 

                  Here is our very basic stern boarding ladder with 3 rungs underwater when deployed (unfolded so it extends below the water surface.) Note: Four underwater rungs might be better for SCUBA divers- and perhaps those of us with a higher than normal surface area to volume ratio...)





                  The next photo is what it looks like in the stowed position.
                  Note it is designed so it can still be used undeployed. (e.g., For accessing the dinghy, etc.)

                  Also note the sturdy stair treads thru-bolted to tabs welded to the stainless tubing rungs. These are much preferred to round tubing...



                  The [whiteish] trip-line that runs up from the wire bale (simple latch that holds the ladder in folded position, upper right, above) c                  an be yanked from either side of the ladder by someone in the water. Pulling the trip line lifts the latch, resulting in gravity deployment of the swinging part of the ladder (the underwater portion.) 
                  Note to selves: keep fingers, toes, noses, and any other dangly bits well clear of the ladder hinges- and noggins out of fall path- when deploying from the water... (i.e., Make sure everyone is off to either side of the ladder before deploying.


                  How easy is it to access the aft deck from the boarding ladder? Our wood railing has a hinged gate in the middle of the transom to make it an easy walk-through. 

                  In the following image, I am standing on the ladder using my toe to lift the latch to deploy the lower portion of the ladder. (A boat hook would be safer, but less acrobatic...)  





                  Following is a photo of our midship boarding ladder: a folding, portable model which can be deployed anywhere along the toe rails on either side of the boat. 

                  Here it is shown deployed at the starboard midship lifeline gate. (The top wood rail is also hinged at this point- as in the above transom photo.)


                  This ladder has pins through the toe rail to secure it in place, as well as a criuser's safety line (since this ladder doesn't float...)

                  Also notice this portable ladder has stand-offs that bear against the hull.
                  Hint: Use crutch tips for this purpose. They are much sturdier and last much longer than the usual rubber caps you find in hardware stores. They also have a metal washer sandwiched in the thick foot so the tubing cannot punch through the rubber over time- tatooing the hull... (We find them in local hardware stores for ~$5/pair...)



                  We deploy the portable boarding ladder when at anchor- offering the rare visitor easier boarding as well as facilitating loading and unloading from other floating craft (e.g., SUP, kayak, dinghy, canoe, logs, etc.)

                  These are our simple methods of making sure we can always get out of the water in a hurry- even at the dock.
                  One final safety reminder we regale ourselves with often:  Just as we treat the edge of the deck as we would a 500 foot cliff when underweigh, we always use any ladder as though we are climbing up or down from a 2nd story roof on a house (or the boat in the yard:)  
                  Facing the ladder! (NOT with our back to it!) 
                  The same applies for companionway ladders/ steep steps, etc. (For us anyway...)

                  Unless, of course, one covets one of these shirts: (Lessons learned? Time will tell...)

















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