This is part of a series describing some of our boat system refits and their operation.
We refer to these often not only for our own use, but also when asked specific questions about systems on Denali Rose, and when participating in discussions on various forums.
We aren't implying our choices are the best or only way to go; they just happen to be the decisions we made...
This post is devided into the following segments: [A table of contents if you like...]
- Overview [From the original project blog post Jun-2014]
- Installation Notes
- Personal experiences with anchor chain types
- Lighthouse Windlass Model 1501 Features
- Additional Resources
- Windlass Installation Details [Many annotated photos of refit]
–––– Latest revision: 17-Jun-2024 [by Bill] ––––
[Added some updated info and resource links; Minor edits/updates and link corrections and additions]
Overview:
One of our first projects in summer 2014 was selecting and installing a new anchor windlass and replacing the old rusted anchor chain. We cruise in remote areas and reliable ground tackle- and its management- is a high priority. Therefore we went with top of the line windlass. Our choice is perhaps best described in this Ocean Navigator article.
We chose a Lighthouse Manufacturing model 1501 with two chain gypsies and one rope drum. We also replaced the 3/8" BBB chain with 5/16" G43 chain to gain strength while loosing weight- allowing us to add more anchor chain for deep water anchoring.
We can now retrieve two anchors simultaneously if we ever need to... Sweet.
It is worth noting our anchoring phylosophy is to set one very capable anchor. [Since 2017, that means our 45 kg (99 lb) Spade S180 most of the time...] The only exception is when we deploy the occasional hammerlock moor [when certain conditions cause the boat to horse at anchor...]
We do keep two anchors on the bow so we can match the best bower for the conditions. Also for immediate back-up if we lost or had to cast off the deployed anchor.
Boat Bling.
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| Lighthouse 1501 stainless steel [316L] windlass and custom deck plate |
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The finished install a year later [2015] showing 60lb CQR on port, and an 80lb Supermax [main bower] starboard.
Note: Our bow configuration changed in Jan-2017 with a new best bower... |
Installation Notes: [This is presuming perfectly matched ISO chain and gypsy.]
- All windlasses require at least a 90° wrap of the chain around the chain gypsy to operate correctly under load. [i.e., 1/4 of a turn minimum... more is better...]
- Less than 90° can cause the chain to hop on the gypsy under load.
- This can be more difficult to achieve with a horizontal windlass
- Too much twist in the chain can also cause hopping/jumping in the chain gypsy
- Likewise, an athwartship lead-in angle of more than ~3° from the bow roller to the gypsy can cause issues as well with horizontal windlasses
- Detailed chain skipping analysis including established remedies
- Vertical windlasses have less problem achieving a chain wrap exceeding 90°; sometimes that can be a challenge with a horizontal windlass. The athwartship chain lead-in angle is also more flexible on a vertical capstain; vertical lead is in less so.
To improve the vertical chain lead-in angle for a horizontal windlass, one can either raise the windlass or lower the chain as demonstrated in the following photos on other boats that have the same windlass we installed:
Update May-2024 [10 years later…]: During the summer of 2023 on day at anchor I mocked-up an idler sheave to lower the lead angle on the chain going into the gypsy on the main bower [starboard] side of the windlass. I pirated the lazy [port] bow roller and manually blacksmithed some SS cheek straps I had into the working prototype, shown below:
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| Summer 2023: Prototype windlass chain lead roller. It worked well the rest of the year, but the borrowed bow roller was too large in diameter to allow the port anchor locker lid to open. Therefore in spring 2024 the roller was replaced with one of smaller diameter, shown below: |
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| May 2024: Final version of windlass chain lead-in roller. This modification helps prevent the chain skipping on the gypsy under higher loads- and still allows us to open both anchor locker lids. |
Notes from personal experience with anchor chain:- There are many reputable chain manufacturers, and many of the other type... Choose wisely, and most importantly, make sure it fits your windlass...
- ACCO- the brand we chose [and perhaps others?]- stamps every link with a G4. This is a quick check for authenticity... Many brands stamp every 4th link or so...
- [As of last update to this page:] Since we bought this chain in 2014, with an average of 200+ overnights at anchor/year [averaging 60+ feet of depth i.e., most of the 360ft of main bower chain is submerged most times...] we have only seen rust a bit of rust appear. This has happened where the galvanizing was chipped/abraded off by rocks [or whatever] on the ocean floor, and abrasion between links from high storm loads
just a few disparate links after 10 years, rust is more general between links - as of the last update to this page... - We either ‘bounce’ the chain in the water [by motoring the boat to make the chain taught] before retrieving, or rinse it with pressurized raw water as it is retrieved
each most of the time. [i.e., It is stowed with no mud clinging to the chain...] - We freshwater rinse our chain
every many times after it is piled into the chain locker by just leaving the locker open in the rain. - Don't buy G4 or G7 chain unless they provide a copy of the Proof Certificate from the manufacturer. [One comes with the chain from reputable manufacturers... (One was on top of our barrel of chain...) It is the validation of the results of tensile testing of the length of chain you purchased.]
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- MULTIPLE OPERATIONAL CAPABILITIES:
Port and Starboard chain retrieval and payout can be independently operated, or can be simultaneously operated in opposite directions (paying out one while retrieving another) also allows rope wildcats to be operated either independent of chain operations, or in conjunction with chain operations.
- MANUAL BACK-UP:
Fast rewind socket port & starboard, or an amazing 10,200 lbs., on second speed with only 35lbs. exerted on a 10" winch handle using the kedging socket located on top of winch. Both manual modes are operated with a standard winch handle. Rope wildcat allows rapid rope retrieval and can be tailed, even under power. [Both manual options work wery well with our Milwaukee 'Cranker' drill.]
- MOTOR DRIVE:
Continuous duty linear power unit (no field windings to burn out). No external grounding required (unit cannot induce electrolysis). No overload protector required for motor. Reversing is optional without changing the motor. 12v, 24v, 32v, 110/220 VAC, and Hydraulic power are available.
- CONSTRUCTION:
All stainless steel type 316L construction, sealed case lifetime lithium lubrication, mounted to built-in base plate. Comes with chain pipes and cast urethane deck seal. [We clamped 2.5" ID exhaust hose to both SS chain pipes below deck to direct and quiet the chain.]
- MOUNTING:
Required deck space for mounting plate is L10" X W11.6", bowsprit mounts L12" X W4". Mounts with (6) ½" bolts. Motor mounts under deck and requires only 2" hole. Optional [SS] backing plates are available from the factory. [We had one custom made for a very reasonable price.]
- GYPSY and WILDCAT:
Standard cast bronze chromed gypsy and stainless steel wildcat port and starboard. ¼" through 7/16" BBB, PC, or System 40 HT are standard, others available on request.
- POWER CONSUMPTION:
- 12v: free run=8amps/rated pull=80amps
- 24v: free run=4amps/rated pull=40amps
- CAPACITIES:
Continuous line pull at 12v - 32v 1000 lbs. @ 37 fpm.
Maximum, depends on available amperage from power supply.
- DIMENSIONS
Height: 8" (203.2mm)
Length: 9.5" (241.3mm)
Width: 24" (609.60mm) [This is for the dual gypsy, dual rope drum model.]
Weight 110 lbs. (50.00 Kg)
Depth: From top of deck: 14.5" (368.3mm). Unit will accept up to 4.5" (114.3mm) deck thickness as standard. Optional extension housings to 48" - It is worth noting that Lighthouse provides a rebuild service for both the windlass [25% of new cost- including any apare parts; and chain gypsies for 50% of new cost.]
Additional Resources:
Windlass Installation Details:
Following is a storyboard of photos [with detailed annotations] demonstrating and describing the retrofitting of a new Lighthouse windlass on Denali Rose's foredeck in summer 2014.
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Original Nico Marine windlass (ç 1983) and 3/8" BBB chain.
The green tape is what I used for marking the layout of the new windlass. [Note: Starboard chain is not in its gypsy in this shot; it is temporarily draped over the clutch wheel so it is out of the way for measuring.]
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Laying out new windlass.
Note: the anchor locker divider (3/4" marine plywood-resin coated) is intensionally off-set slightly to port. [i.e., The starboard locker is larger and so will be used for main bower...]
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| Triangular top [deck] plate is in the lower left of this field drawing, and is shapped to match the existing raised section on deck. The rectangular backing plate is on upper half of drawing. |
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| Out with the old... and reconfirm layout... |
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| Dry fitting new deck plate; marking bolt holes for drilling. The yellow canister is the windlass motor encased in a kevlar wrap with a molded urethane base that has a removable bottom to accommodate water tight wire penetrations. |
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Swiss cheese deck from old and new windlass holes. This is why I had the custom deck plate and large backing plate fabricated. [Both are 1/4" thick 316 stainless steel and will be bonded with 3M 4200UV- VS. 5200- to accommodate future removal if necessary...]
Note: Nauticat does not use any coring in their hand layed-up fiberglass hulls- including the deck. The deck was just shy of 1 inch thick were these holes are. |
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Backing plate placed on top of deck plate [for reference] to demonstrate layout and coverage...
The backing plate lower right corner [in photo] is notched because I didn't have time to remove the old foot switch which has a ~2 hole through the deck. This hole will become a small, clear deck plate for viewing the propane A-B switch in the future.
Also note the 2.5 inch ID tubes welded to the backing plate where the two chains lead through [i.e., hawseholes...] Those tubes are long enough [1 inch to match deck thickness- per my request] to mate with the SS deck plate [protecting the non-cored deck from the anchor chain] and extend another 2 inches into the anchor well. These are for clamping 2.5 inch ID exhaust tubing to for leading the chain in the chain locker [and quieting any rattling...]
In retrospect, I wish I had removed the rectangular grey cover securing a since abandoned 12 VDC outlet, and extended the SS deck plate over that hole as well...
Update May-2024 [10 years later…]: I finally dealt with removing the old grey outlet cover, above, as well as replacing the old full current [i.e., manual relay] foot switch with Up and Down relay controlled switches. All that remains as of this writing is to physically remove the old foot switch- replacing with a 4” diameter clear deck plate for viewing/switching the twin propane tank controls.
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| Boat bling. New 1501 Windlass from Lighthouse manufacturing. [Dry fitting after drilling holes through deck...] |
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A view of the permanent install (looking aft .) You can just make out the yellow drive motor, below. (The loose wiring is for the propane solenoid and was later attached to the underside of the deck.)
The perforated rubber floor matts in the background are remnants from lining the bottom [2 layers on the bottom...] and all sides [single layer] of the anchor locker to prevent the chain from making direct contact. This prevents unnecessary wear on the hull, quiets the chain in the locker, and allows for water to drain and the chain to dry.
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| In this view you can [barely] see I had to notch the 3/4" plywood anchor locker divider to allow clearance for the motor. Also note the forward most 1/2" hex bolts on the windlass base. These mate to nuts welded to the backing plate, greatly simplifying installation. |
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The finished installation. This view also shows the captive, tight fitting slotted stainless chainpipes covers/chain retainers. These pivot to fit tightly over the rectangular polyurethane boot which is an extension of the cast polyurethane base— which negates the need for any sealant; making future removal of the windlass a simple matter of removing 6 bolts and dropping the motor.
The deck and backing plates were bedded using 3M 4200 so they could be removed in the future if necessary. |
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Preparing to pull [from a full barrel; 550 feet] of 5/16 inch grade 43 chain into the starboard locker [for the first time] to see how much will free-fall. [Ultimately this was done on both sides of the divided anchor locker...]
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This is the 'middle' of the 550' length [1 barrel] of 5/16" grade 43 chain after both ends were pulled into their respective chain lockers.
It was readjusted to accommodate our main bower on starboard, so we ended up allocating 360 feet for the main bower on starboard and the remaining 190 feet for the secondary bower on port.
Both sides have warp [rope rodes] attached to the chain bitter-ends.
The loop of red rope hanging over the side is the line attached to the boat. [One for each anchor rode.] The other end is attached to the respective rope rode. This red line is long enough to hang over the bow rollers and is the line to cut if we ever had to abandon the anchor tackle— hopefully after attaching some floats for subsequent retrieval...
See our Ground Tackle Inventory page for more details. |
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Note the 1/2" 'Starboard' installed on foredeck and anchor locker lids to protect fiberglass deck from anchors, chain, etc.
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